Why River Kayaking Is Special — And Risky

Rivers are often narrower than lakes or oceans, which means if you capsize, shore is usually within swimming distance. This makes river kayaking generally safe, but the strong and sometimes unpredictable current demands respect. Understanding common river kayaking mistakes is key to staying safe and enjoying your trip.

1. Not Wearing a Proper PFD

One of the most critical river kayaking mistakes is neglecting your Personal Flotation Device (PFD) or lifejacket. Think of your PFD as a seatbelt for the water—it might seem unnecessary 99% of the time but can save your life in that 1% when things go wrong. Importantly, choose a paddling-specific PFD designed for comfort and freedom of movement so you’re less likely to want to remove it mid-trip.

2. Ignoring Water Levels and Current

Many kayakers underestimate how dramatically water levels affect river currents, and how quickly levels can change. High water or flood conditions can make currents much faster and more powerful, increasing the chance of being flipped or swept into hazards.

One of the biggest river kayaking mistakes is heading out without checking current water conditions or knowing when to bail early if the water level starts to change and things get dangerous.

3. Using the Wrong Kayak for River Conditions

Taking the wrong kayak on a river can be a fatal mistake. If there is only very mild current, then any kayak will do the trick. But if the current gets a little stronger, choosing the right kayak is critical. In particular, recreational sit-inside kayaks without bulkheads may fill with water if swamped, making it difficult or impossible to control. Bulkheads are walls inside the kayak that separate the boat into separate watertight compartments. Sit-on-top kayaks and inflatable kayaks are always good choices for rivers with current, because they won’t swamp and always float.

Understanding your kayak’s capabilities is key to avoiding serious river kayaking mistakes. Learn how to pick the best kayak for your next river adventure.

4. Underestimating Hazards Like Low-Head Dams and Strainers

Low-head dams and strainers (fallen trees or log jams) are deceptively dangerous. They can trap kayakers and swimmers underwater, making them deadly river hazards. One of the most avoidable river kayaking mistakes is not scouting ahead or portaging around these obstacles, especially if the current pushes you toward them.

5. Not Wearing a Helmet When Needed

While not every river trip requires a helmet, paddlers should wear one when there’s a reasonable chance of flippingin white water above Class I. Skipping helmet use is a common river kayaking mistake that can lead to serious injury.

Stay Safe and Enjoy the Rivers

Rivers are some of the most rewarding places to kayak, but they demand respect and preparation. Avoiding these top river kayaking mistakes—wearing your PFD, checking water levels, choosing the right kayak, scouting hazards, and wearing a helmet when needed—will keep you safe and help you fully enjoy your adventure.

Paddle smart and make rivers your favorite paddling spot!

The post Top 5 Deadly River Kayaking Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them!) appeared first on Hazeadventure.

1. Always Wear a PFD

For all kayakers, the use of a Personal Flotation Device (PFD) is non-negotiable. Just like a seatbelt in your vehicle, it might feel unnecessary—until it isn’t. PFD's save lives. Always wear it, even in calm or shallow water. If comfort is an issue, invest in a paddling-specific PFD, and know that there are PFDs designed to accommodate different types of kayaks. For example, some paddling PFDs will have little flotation, or no flotation in the back, to accommodate the high-back seats that quality recreational kayaks often have. If you're looking for a paddling specific PFD, I'm a big fan of NRS lifejackets.

2. Use Your Paddle Properly

One of the most common mistakes beginner kayakers make is using the paddle incorrectly. Make sure the cupped (concave) side of the blade faces you. If they do so, then the Logos should be upright and readable on the blade. If they're not, it means your blades are on the wrong side of the kayak, and you need to rotate the paddle 180-degrees. Your hand placement should be slightly more than shoulder width apart, with your hands an equal distance from the blades. To test your hand placement, put your paddle on your head. This should create a 90° angle at your elbows. When you're paddling, you should maintain a light and relaxed grip on the paddle.

Some paddles will have drip rings on each end. if yours does, position the drip rings a hand’s width from the blades. This will prevent water from running off the blade, down the paddle shaft to your hands, where it will then drip onto your lap.

Another consideration is the feather, or twist of your paddle. This refers to the angle difference between the two blades. There is no right or wrong when it comes to paddle feather. I would recommend using anything between a 0 and 45° twist. Most quality 2-piece kayak paddles let you modify the twist of the paddle.

Choosing the right paddle length is key to comfort and efficiency. Read an article about Kayak Paddle Size and Length.

3. Power Your Strokes with Torso Rotation

Strong arms help—but your core should do the heavy lifting. Many beginner kayakers underestimate the value of torso rotation. Rotate your torso with each stroke to maximize power and reduce fatigue. This technique also improves control and allows you to paddle longer with less strain.

Check out my tips to learn the three kayaking strokes that form the foundation for good paddling technique.

4. Prepare for a Capsize

Capsizing happens—even to the best of us. Beginner kayakers should stay within swimming distance of shore unless they’ve learned how to reenter a kayak from the water. it's also critical that you dress for the water temperature, not just the air temperature. Below 65°F/18°C? You’ll want to consider a wetsuit, dry suit or other technical paddling apparel to help prevent hypothermia. For more information, PaddleTV offers a detailed video on the gear you should consider when paddling in cold conditions.

If you're paddling in warm water, and on bodies of water that are protected from strong wind and waves, then you don't NEED to take a paddling course. But, the American Canoe Association does have a free Paddlesports Online Safety Course that is worth it for all beginner kayakers. If you want to explore more broadly with your kayak, it is highly recommended that you take a kayak safety and rescue course.

5. Know Your Limits as a Kayaker

Accidents happen when paddlers overestimate their skills. Beginner kayakers should be honest about their fitness and experience, and they should know about their kayak’s capabilities. Sit-on-top kayaks are safer overall because they won't swamp. On the other hand, sit-inside models tend to perform better, but they need proper flotation like bulkheads or float bags in order to be safe if you're going to travel further from shore than you can comfortably swim.

Make the Most of These 5 Rules

Stick to these five golden rules—wear your PFD, use your paddle correctly, engage your torso, be ready for a capsize, and know your limits—and you’ll steer clear of the most common beginner hazards. Beginner kayakers will find kayaking safe and fun—if they respect the water, their gear, and their own limitations.

For more in-depth tips and gear reviews, check out Ken Whiting’s videos on Paddle TV. Paddle safe—and have fun out there!

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First, let me emphasize something important—kayaking is an incredibly safe activity overall. However, like any sport involving nature's elements, it demands respect and preparedness. That's why I'm passionate about sharing these insights; to ensure your time on the water is not just exhilarating but also as safe as possible. I want to give a special shout-out to our partner, the American Canoe Association (ACA). They've been instrumental in promoting paddling safety and education. Check out their paddling course for more great information.

Wear Your PFD (Personal Flotation Device)

Let's start with the basics. Wearing a PFD isn't just a suggestion; it's non-negotiable. As my friend Chad Hoover humorously puts it, “PFD stands for ‘pretty freaking dumb' if you don't wear one.” Whether you're paddling calm waters or braving more challenging conditions, a PFD is your seatbelt on the water—an essential piece of gear that can save your life in unforeseen circumstances.

Dress for Immersion

One of the gravest mistakes paddlers make is not dressing appropriately for immersion. Imagine a warm day on the beach; it's tempting to wear light, cotton clothing. However, when you're paddling and there's a chance of immersion in cold water, cotton becomes your worst enemy. Opt instead for synthetic fabrics like fleece or polypropylene that insulate even when wet, or consider a wetsuit or drysuit for added protection.

Know Your Limits: Distance from Shore and Re-Entry

Another critical point is understanding your capabilities when it comes to re-entering your kayak from the water. Practice re-entry to the kayak, practice this skill in calm conditions before venturing further from shore. It's not just about physical strength; it's about confidence and preparedness for any scenario that might arise.

Respect the Weather

Bad weather can escalate quickly, posing significant risks if you're unprepared and potentially becoming a fatal kayaking mistake. Always check the forecast and be ready to adjust your plans. Never feel compelled to push forward through hazardous conditions; having the ability to wait it out or find shelter can make all the difference.

Awareness of River Hazards

Navigating rivers adds another layer of complexity. Dams and log jams can be lethal if not approached with caution. Avoid low-head dams and steer clear of log jams, especially in high-water conditions where currents are stronger and more unpredictable.

Stay Grounded: Standing in Current

Standing up in fast-moving water might seem harmless, but it can lead to serious accidents. The riverbed is often uneven and can trap your foot, making it impossible to regain stability. Always swim to shallow water before attempting to stand.

Protect Yourself from the Elements

Lastly, don't overlook protection from the sun and heat. Wear a hat, apply sunscreen, and choose clothing that shields you from UV rays. Staying hydrated is equally crucial; invest in reliable water filtration systems if paddling in fresh water.

By being aware of these common pitfalls and taking proactive measures, you can significantly enhance your safety and enjoyment while kayaking. Remember, preparation and knowledge are your best allies on the water.

I want to give a special shout-out to our partner, the American Canoe Association (ACA). They've been instrumental in promoting paddling safety and education. Check out their paddling course for more great information.

For more in-depth tips and insights, subscribe to my PaddleTV YouTube channel, where I cover a wide range of paddling topics and gear reviews. Stay safe, stay prepared, and keep exploring!

Happy paddling,

Ken Whiting

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When to Use a Skeg 

If you paddle a touring or sea kayak on a windy day, you might notice that when the skeg is up, the kayak naturally turns towards the direction of the wind. This phenomenon is known as weather cocking and happens when your kayak has a keel that cuts through the water. The kayak does not start turning because of the direction of the bow. Instead, it is because the wind blows the stern of the kayak downwind faster than it blows the bow. 

To stop weather cocking you have two main options. The first is to paddle harder on one side than on the other. This way, you can keep the kayak moving more or less in a straight line. However, this is not an ideal or comfortable solution for long as it causes you to paddle unevenly. 

The other option is to use something to keep the stern in place, which is where the skeg comes in. 

How to Use a Skeg

When you notice you need to paddle unevenly to keep your kayak straight, it is time to drop the skeg. Skegs can be lowered to different levels. The depth of the skeg will affect how firmly the stern is held into place. If you lower it fully, it is possible that the stern is held too firmly in place. This might cause the kayak to start turning in the other direction. 

The amount you need to drop the skeg depends on the strength and direction of the wind and your kayak's tendency to weather cock. Every kayak with a keel does weather cock slightly. However, a lot of inflatable kayaks do not weather cock. They have a flat bottom, which is why many of them do not need a skeg. 

If you have a skeg, it just takes a little experimenting to see how much you need to lower it. The goal is to be able to paddle evenly on both sides and in a straight line. The depth the skeg needs to go will differ every time you are out on the water. However, using your skeg will make paddling in the wind much more enjoyable! 

Kayak: Melker Ulvon
Paddles:  Gearlab Outdoors Greenland Ipik
PFD:   NRS OSO Lifejacket
Storage: Gearlab Outdoors Deck Pod 2
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt
Sunglasses: Wiley X

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Carving Drill

Carving is an important skill for a variety of reasons. It is how you make solid and efficient eddy turns and good ferries. It also unlocks the door to many cool play moves like surfing waves. So it is invaluable for whitewater kayakers to learn to carve instead of letting the boat spin out. 

How To Do the Carving Drill

First, you need to start kayaking and get some speed. Then you will establish turn momentum, put your kayak on edge, and use only forward strokes on the inside of your turn. Doing this keeps the kayak carving in a circle. 

It is only possible to take strokes on the inside of a turn and keep going in the same direction if you do two things. The first thing is to keep the boat balanced on the edge. You do this by balancing on one butt cheek and fine-tuning the tilt using the opposite knee. 

The second thing is to have the correct paddle position. Your paddle has to be vertical when you take a stroke. If the paddle shaft is more horizontal, it will kill your spin momentum. Because the paddle is vertical, you are not relying on it as a brace. It does not provide any balancing support, therefore, you have to rely on your own balance. 

How to Apply Power

Once you become comfortable with that carving drill in both directions (which is important), you need to add power. I was once told that whitewater kayaking is all about technique and not power. There is some truth to that because good technique will take you a long way in the sport, while power alone will take you less far. But, as in any sport, you need good technique, but for that to be useful, you need to be able to apply power. 

So how do you start applying power to the carving drill? Well, you need to get moving and carving again. The next step is to start pulling more aggressively on the paddle. With every stroke, you should thrust your hips forward. When you do this, you involve the whole body, which provides more power. 

Application of the Carving Drill

You might recognize this as the boof stroke. It is the stroke you take when you go off a waterfall and thrust your boat over the lip. When you are boof off a waterfall, you need to hold your boat on edge. The last stroke before you go off the waterfall should be vertical so that you keep your boat straight. Boofing is just one of many applications of this stroke. 

A more common application of the carving drill is in eddy turns. When you approach an eddy and want to cut into the main current, you need to paddle toward the eddy line with some speed. As you cross the eddy line, you should thrust the kayak across the line and into the main current to avoid getting spun. 

Pivot Turns

This drill is intended for kayaks with a slicey stern, so half-slice sterns or playboats. It does not work in a creek boat. 

So what are pivot turns? Pivot turns involve sinking one end of the kayak (usually the stern) under the water to make your kayak spin faster. Pivot turns are important to learn because they allow you to control your kayak's spin momentum. Whitewater kayaks are designed to turn, not to go straight, so you need to learn how to control the spinning momentum a whitewater kayak already has. 

Pivot turns also allow you to harness the power of buoyancy energy. Buoyancy energy is the energy your kayak has any time the end of it is underwater. The end of your kayak does not want to stay underwater instead, it wants to come to the surface. You can use this to your advantage. Pivot turns also teach you edge control. 

A Forward Sweep Pivot Turn

You can practice the pivot turn using a forward sweep and a backward sweep. To do a forward sweep turn, you should sink the stern of the kayak as you take a forward sweep. 

Once the stern has been sunk, it doesn’t want to be underwater so, before the stroke is finished you have to level off the kayak. If you don’t level it off in time, the stern will “hit the wall” and pop back off to the surface. 

If you do level the stern off in time, then it comes back to the surface in the direction you want it to come back in. This keeps your kayak spinning in full circle.

There are some useful things to note when doing a pivot turn. At the beginning of the stroke, you can be the most aggressive at throwing your stern downwards. As your stern goes further underwater, it has more and more buoyancy energy, so you start to lose power.

This is the point where you need to level your angle so that it is completely level by the time you finish your stroke. So you do not go directly from underwater to completely leveled in one go. Instead, you start as aggressively as possible and gradually level it off. 

How to Practice the Pivot Turn

You can practice pivot turns in a variety of different ways. Firstly, you can practice it with a forward sweep, making sure to get comfortable with it on both sides. After all, you won’t only have to edge in one direction. You can also practice it with a back sweep. This is known as a stern squirt. 

You could practice this on eddy lines, but it is better to practice on flat water. When doing pivot turns on flat water, you can see if and when you are doing something wrong. If you don’t level your boat off on time when on flat water, you will “hit the wall”, and lose all of the spin momentum you initiated. 

Backpaddling

Backpaddling is a simple skill that is very important for multiple reasons. 

1. It Develops Backpaddling Awareness

The more backpaddling practice you have, the more you develop your backpaddling awareness. The most likely time to panic is when you are turned backward while on a rapid. And the reason this can feel so scary is that most people have far more awareness when paddling forward than when facing backward. This awareness comes with practice and spending time going backward. 

The biggest jump in my whitewater skills came one summer when a buddy and I decided to spend the entire month doing our regular paddles backward. We ran every rapid backward, caught every wave backward, and did everything we would normally do forwards, but backward instead. We were beaten and battered a few times, but our whitewater skills had improved massively by the end of the month. 

I am not recommending that everyone should try this. But, there are less aggressive ways to practice backpaddling and develop your backpaddling awareness. For instance, when you get a nice eddy line, practice your eddy turns backward, practice your ferries backward, and if you are bold enough, you can even practice rapids backward. 

2. It Works The Front Deltoid Muscles

Backpaddling works the front deltoids. The deltoids are muscles in your chest that you don’t often use when forward paddling. Working these helps to balance the body out when you do a lot of forward paddling. 

Backpaddling Tips

When backpaddling, particularly with a slicey stern, it helps to keep your weight slightly forwards. If you tilt your kayak slightly into each backward stroke, it lifts your stern edges out of the water. 

These are the three drills that all whitewater paddlers should practice regularly and master. Doing these three things regularly will have a profound effect on your whitewater kayaking. 

The Pyranha Ripper 2

In this video I used the Pyranha Ripper 2 half slice whitewater kayak. This boat is a great river running kayak and is fun to play with as well on waves. Check out my review here: The Pyranha Ripper 2 Review: The Best All-Round Whitewater Kayak?

Kayak: Pyranha Ripper 2
PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Zen Whitewater Vest
Paddle:  Aqua Bound Shred
Shirt:  NRS Guide Short Sleeved Men’s Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts

The post Key Tips for Whitewater Kayakers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

The Boats I'm Showing Off

For this article, I'm going to be using the Perception Hangtime 11 paddle kayak and the Perception Showdown pedal kayak. Though both are in different categories, both represent their niche very well.

Where Will You Use Your Kayak?

Where you intend to use your kayak is a factor that will answer the paddle or pedal kayak question immediately. You can use a paddle kayak anywhere and for any type of kayaking (with the right kayak). On the other hand, the pedal kayak does have some serious limitations. They do not perform well in:

• Rivers with current
• Shallow waters 
• Zones with thick vegetation 
• Surf zones

These are just a few examples of places where the pedal system is a liability. In these environments, you should not use a pedal-driven kayak but instead, choose a paddle-driven kayak. 

Boat Control

A paddle kayak offers a lot more control. The paddle allows you to make small corrections, and quickly turn, stop, or reverse. You have a lot more control using a paddle kayak compared to a pedal kayak. 

That being said, some pedal kayaks are remarkably maneuverable, but it depends on the type of pedal kayak. Some pedal kayaks don’t even offer you the ability to reverse which can be very limiting. Even if you have a pedal-driven kayak, you will need to carry a paddle with you. 

Kayak Speed

A pedal-driven kayak is generally considerably faster than a paddle kayak. Although this isn’t the case for every single kayak, when you take two kayaks with comparable build, style, and size, the pedal kayak is generally faster. 

Comfort

The comfort of a kayak depends on what works best for you and your body. That being said, pedal-driven kayaks tend to be slightly more comfortable than paddle-driven kayaks. The reason for this is that the ideal position to pedal in is leaning-back and lounging. The lounging position is more comfortable for a lot of people, especially for those with tight hamstrings. It can, however, exacerbate back problems. So comfort-wise there is no clear winner and it depends more on what position is most comfortable for your body. 

Another aspect to take into consideration regarding comfort is the shoulders and knees. A lot of people have shoulder pain, in which case a pedal-driven kayak is a better choice. On the other hand, the pedal-driven kayak can aggravate bad knees, in which case a paddle-driven kayak might be a better choice. At the end of the day, it comes down to your specific body and how it works. The best way to decide which method is most comfortable and enjoyable for your body is to test out both a pedal and a paddle-driven kayak before buying one.

Pedal Kayak Advantages

The pedal kayak has a distinct advantage when it comes to kayak fishing and photography. When you drive your kayak with your feet, your hands are free to fish or hold a camera. They are not completely free because you still need to use them to steer the kayak every once in a while. 

The other caveat is that you lose some boat control with a pedal kayak, which means you will have less control over where your boat is moving or pointed to than in a paddle-driven kayak. But as a general rule, there is a real advantage to using the pedal kayak for fishing and photography. 

Price

Price is one of the biggest factors for most people. You pay a hefty premium to get a pedal kayak. You can expect to pay $1000-1500 (USD) more for a kayak with a pedal drive system. This is a lot of money. It is, however, absolutely worth it for people who want to use a pedal-driven kayak. As a general rule, people who choose to buy pedal-driven kayaks end up loving them. 

Some people argue that you save a bit of money when purchasing a pedal-driven kayak because you don’t need to spend on a paddle. However, you do need to take a paddle with you when using a pedal kayak. You might have a mechanical failure or end up in a situation where you need the paddle to maneuver the kayak. So the reality is that you do pay a hefty premium for the pedal-driven kayak. 

What is The Right Choice?

The bottom line is that there is no right or wrong choice to make. It is completely up to your personal preference and situation. The kayak location will influence your choice. In some locations, a pedal-driven kayak will simply be the wrong choice. Physical limitations are also a factor to consider, whether you have bad knees, shoulders, or other limitations. 

I am a paddler at heart and have been paddling for 35 years so personally would always choose to use a paddle-driven kayak. That being said, I can appreciate the benefits of a pedal-driven kayak, particularly when I am fishing or filming. I am glad that I don’t need to have just one kayak. If you can only have one kayak then you have a much more difficult choice to make! 

I did a post a while ago on the Showdown and the Hangtime. Check out the Perception Showdown 11.5 Kayak Review – Pedal Fishing Kayak and the Perception Hangtime 11 Review.

Kayaks: Perception Hangtime 11, Perception Showdown
PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Paddle:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Guide Short Sleeved Men’s Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Pedal Kayaks Vs Paddle Kayaks: Which Should You Choose? appeared first on Hazeadventure.

There are a lot of advantages to using tandem kayaks. They are wide and, therefore, stable. Tandem kayaks can move fast because you have two people driving them along. But you can also power tandem kayaks with just one person. So you don't need to paddle all the time. This is great for people who tire easily, are lazy, or prefer relaxing on the water. 

So, here are 3 tandem kayak tips to make the most out of your tandem kayaking experience. 

Tandem Kayak Tip #1

Tandem kayaks have often been called divorce boats. That is because paddling adventures in a tandem kayak can become heated debates on the water. But that only happens when people go for a paddle without appreciating why the other person is on the water. When you understand what both paddlers hope to get from an experience on the water, you can adjust the paddling trip plans to accommodate that. 

For example, when I recently went on a trip with my wife, we planned what we wanted out of the trip. I like pushing myself to my limits while my wife prefers relaxing on the water. So if we had planned a long trip, she would’ve become overly tired, maybe a little cranky, and neither of us would enjoy it. Instead, I created a paddling trip that we would both enjoy and altered my expectations. We ended up having a wonderful experience.

Tandem kayaks do not need to be divorce boats. You can have an incredible experience with the people you love, on the water, in a tandem kayak. You just need to have the right expectations. 

Tip #2: Stronger Paddler Should Be in the Stern

There are a couple of reasons why the stronger or more active paddler should sit in the stern. If the person in the bow stops paddling, the person at the back can continue to paddle and keep control of the kayak. You can keep making good headway with only the person in the stern kayaking. On the other hand, if the person in the stern stops paddling, the person paddling in the bow will have more difficulty controlling the kayak. So the stronger and more active paddler should always be in the stern of the boat. 

Tip #3. Paddle in Unison on Same Side

Paddling in unison looks prettier when you are out on the water. But more importantly, you are less likely to clash paddles when you paddle in time with each other. Ultimately this will make paddling in a tandem kayak far less frustrating because you can take a clean and full stroke each time. By paddling in unison you will have a less frustrating and more efficient trip. 

When paddling in unison, it is important to note that the person in the bow of the kayak sets the pace. The stern paddler then matches the bow paddler's pace. Sometimes your natural stroke pace might be different from each other. To deal with this the stern paddler can always communicate and ask the bow paddler to adjust their pace. 

Tip #4 Use Opposite Sweep Stokes to Turn

The most efficient way to turn a tandem kayak is to use opposite sweep strokes on opposite sides. To do this the bow paddler does a forward sweep stroke on one side of the kayak while the stern paddler does a reverse sweep stroke on the other side. This turns the kayak very effectively. 

What is a sweep stroke? Well, that is a stroke where you hold the paddle low and sweep the paddle out in a wide arc. You are not propelling the kayak forward in this stroke, you are turning it as much as possible. 

Using these tips I enjoyed my last tandem kayaking trip a lot more than I expected. So I will be adding more tandem kayaking to my paddling trips in the future. 

If you're interested in this specific tandem kayak, feel free to read my full Wilderness Systems Targa 130T review as well.

PFDs/Life Jackets:  NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Kayaks: Wilderness Systems Targa 130t
Paddle:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Carbon 2-piece
Shirts and Tops:  NRS Guide Short Sleeved Men’s Shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Tandem Kayak Tips appeared first on Hazeadventure.

The Basic Draw Stroke

The basic draw stroke involves reaching out your blade to the side of your kayak, about level with your hip. You then need to put the blade fully into the water. After that, just pull your body and the boat toward the blade. 

For the most effective stroke, rotate your upper body to face your active blade. Plant your blade completely in the water and get your paddle shaft as vertical as possible. Getting your paddle shaft vertical means pushing your top hand fully across the kayak. This can put you in a bit of an unstable position. So when learning the stroke you can lower your hand to face-level instead. With confidence, you can start reaching over the side of the kayak. 

With your blade completely in the water, you will pull your lower hand towards the hip. Your top hand should stay fairly stationary during these motions to act as a pivot for the stroke. 

Before the blade reaches the side of the boat, stop the stroke, and slice your blade back out away from the boat. If you let the blade come right against the kayak it can get a little tippy. 

A common problem people face with the draw stroke is that instead of the kayak moving laterally, it starts turning. This is because every kayak draws differently. If you find that the bow is starting to turn then it probably means you are drawing too close to the front of the kayak and vice versa. You have to find the happy medium – the hip is a good starting point. 

Knifing Draw Stroke or T-Stroke

The idea of the t-stroke is that once the blade gets close to the side of the boat, instead of slicing it out to the back of the kayak, you keep it moving. To do this, once the blade is by the side of the kayak, curl your wrist forward and spin the blade 90 degrees. This lets you take the blade directly back to where it started to begin a new stroke. 

The benefit of this is that you are in control of the kayak the whole time. Additionally, you can make strokes a lot quicker. 

The Sculling Draw Stroke

This is the next evolution of the draw stroke. This is a stroke that I use all the time because it lets you fine-tune your position in the water. 

It starts in very much the same way as the basic draw. You turn your head and body to face the active blade and, with your paddle shaft as vertical as possible, engage your blade in the water. This lets you provide the most lateral pressure on the water.

The difference here is the motion of the blade. Instead of just drawing the blade towards the hip, you make a sculling motion to apply steady and even pressure on the paddle. This bypasses the whole recovery phase that the basic and knifing draw deal with. 

The key to the sculling draw is the motion of the blade through the water. The blade moves in a small path forward and backward along the side of the kayak, about two feet out from the side of the kayak. 

The trick here is that the leading edge of the blade needs to be higher than the trailing edge. As I am pushing forward I will cock my wrist back a little, and as I am pushing back I will curl my wrist forwards. You can almost think of it like buttering bread. When you spread butter onto bread, if your knife doesn’t have a climbing angle on it you are just going to dig into the bread. And that is the same with sculling: the leading edge has to be higher than the trailing edge. 

By doing this motion vertically you spread even pressure onto the power face of your paddle (the side of the blade you take a forward stroke with) and that draws your kayak sideways. 

Top Tips for Draw Stroke

1. Be Subtle

You can change the angle of the paddle but these need to be subtle. If the changes in angle are not subtle you could effectively be just doing forwards and backwards strokes in the water! 

2. Use Your Core

The paddle motion is not driven by your arms but by your core. The way you do that is by turning your upper body and keeping your top hand in a relatively stable position. You just need to move your paddle by rotating your upper body. The arms are only responsible for changing the angle of your paddle. 

The reason to use your core is that the muscles in your torso and core are way more powerful than those in your arms. So it makes sense to harness that power! 

The sculling draw stroke is a very effective way to travel sideways in the water. But it goes beyond that: by mastering the sculling draw you are improving your paddle dexterity. You are developing a better understanding of how slight changes in blade movement and angle in the water impact the movement of your boat. This comes into play in so many different ways as you progress as a paddler. So I would highly recommend that you take the time to learn the sculling draw along with other forms of the draw stroke for kayaking. 

Introducing the Hurricane Tampico 130! For this tip I used the Tampico 130. This is a great thermoformed kayak. The thermoformed plastic is much lighter and helps for a much easier day on the water. I recently took this kayak to the Okefenokee and did a full in-depth review. Check out my Kayak Camping in the Okefenokee Swamp journal and my Review of the Hurricane Tampico 130

Kayak: Hurricane Tampico 130
Paddles:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Hybrid
PFD:   NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Draw Stroke for Kayaking appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Don't put that kayak into storage! There are ways to have fun on the water, even when it's chilly. Cold water kayaking means choosing between wetsuit vs drysuit.

Wetsuits keep you warm

Wetsuits are tightly-fitting body coverings made of neoprene. They are designed to keep you warm while paddling, surfing, swimming, or scuba diving in cooler conditions. When the suit gets wet, it holds a thin layer of water between it and your skin. Your body will then heat this fluid, which creates a warm cocoon.

Snug fitted wetsuits insulate better

The catch is that the suit has to be tight, otherwise that layer of liquid insulation won't stay in place. A loose fitted wetsuit will be constantly flushed with fresh, cold water. Purchasing a wetsuit that fits tightly means that as we grow (i.e. either a child who is maturing or an adult who is…umm…expanding), wetsuits will have to be replaced with bigger sizes that fit.

Wetsuits enhance flotation

The big advantage to wetsuits is that they enhance flotation. Extra flotation without impeding too much range of motion, if you can tolerate a thinner design. This is a major reason why they're so popular amongst surfers. Wetsuits are also less expensive and can be repaired easier than drysuits. 

What are the different types of wetsuits?

Wetsuits come in a variety of sizes/options/thicknesses. The style with long legs and shoulder straps is typically called a “Farmer John.” If you're in cooler waters, then you may also want to wear a wetsuit top with a long-sleeves. Wetsuit tops sometimes are worn in conjunction with a simple bathing suit bottom. There's also the classic “Shorty” wetsuit, which essentially connects a neoprene t-shirt and shorts in one continuous piece. 

Drysuit vs Wetsuit

I've been primarily using the same drysuit for over 15 years. And to be perfectly honest, I no longer own a wetsuit. I've gotten soft over the years. Even though I've enjoyed some wild paddling adventures in places like the Arctic, and the Grand Canyon during Christmas, I've still developed a strong preference for staying dry.

Budget boater vs Comfort boater

When I was younger, I only used wetsuits. Wetsuits work perfectly fine as long as they're sized properly. The the main downside is that they have to be wet in order to keep you warm. I don't want to be wet anymore so I prefer the drysuit.

Maintenance of the drysuit is key

If your drysuit is in good condition (click here to learn about drysuit maintenance) then you should be able to step out of it after a solid paddling session without having a drop of water on your clothes. And if you opt for the built in foot covers (rather than ankle gaskets), then you can wear a pair of cozy socks, and keep your toes just as dry as the rest of your body. 

Drysuits are easier to get into and out of vs wetsuits

Another advantage that drysuits have over wetsuits is that they're much easier to get in and out of. This means less of a struggle on the bookends of an otherwise fun paddling day, and also much less of a panic when Mother Nature calls (which tends to happen more often when it's cold out). Oh, and while we're on the subject, spend the extra dough and get a drysuit with a “relief zipper.” You won't regret it. 

Maintenance of the zippers on a drysuit

A minor drawback to drysuits is that the heavy-duty zippers do need to be maintained and lubed up in order to function properly over time. 

Drysuits cost more than wetsuits

The one major con of drysuits is how expensive they are. A good drysuit (and I do recommend you commit to something high-quality if you go down this road) will push you north of $1,000 (USD). However, if you treat it well, you'll get years and years and years of extended paddling seasons, and exciting cold-weather expeditions out of your purchase. 

Does a drysuit keep you warm?

On its own, a drysuit is designed to not only keep you dry (no surprise there) but also to have some insulating properties. But the real comfort comes from the layers you choose to wear underneath. Since a drysuit fits so much looser than a wetsuit, a full range of cold-weather apparel can be worn (or not worn) underneath. It all depends on the conditions, and how hot your personal furnace burns. 

I hope that helps you make sense of this important paddler's crossroads. If you're still a young-pup, or more stoic than I am, then a wetsuit might be the way to go. But if you're like me, and just want to stay dry at all costs, then maybe the drysuit will be your preference too. Either way I hope this article helped you answer wetsuit vs drysuit.

Dry Suits: NRS Axiom, Level Six Emperor
Kayaks: Jackson Kayak Rockstar, Jackson Kayak Antix
Paddles: Aqua Bound

In that case, you may want to check out my review of the NRS Axiom and Level Six Emperor drysuits. And as always, head on over to PaddleTV for a steady stream of fun and informative paddling content. 

The post Wetsuit vs Drysuit: What’s the difference between wetsuit and drysuit? appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Should you wear a helmet while kayaking?

While the guidelines are straight-forward in terms of PFDs on kayaks, the helmet question can be a bit more subjective. When some paddlers encounter any kind of current, they will always reach for the extra head protection. A good general guide is whitewater kayaking requires the use of head protection.

Moving water naturally presents a higher risk of flipping. You never know when a nefarious rock may be lurking just underneath. So why take the chance, right? It only makes sense to wear a helmet at all times if you're not sure what to expect of yourself or the waters up ahead.

Whitewater vs Calmer waters

Experienced paddlers may feel sufficiently confident with a stable boat and moderate conditions that they will continue without a helmet. Since I have been paddling whitewater for over 30 years, I'll make a judgment call about whether or not I need to “suit up” when I see what's coming up ahead. This is especially true when traveling on a longer river trip in a raft.

If I was in a raft (or a stable kayak like a fishing kayak) and saw some Class 1 rapids coming up, I wouldn't be concerned about head injuries. This doesn't mean that passing on a helmet is the right answer for all people in similar circumstances, it just means that's what I'm personally comfortable doing. Having said that, most boaters should wear a helmet in any whitewater to be safe.

Do I need a life jacket or personal flotation device (PFD)?

The bottom line (in my opinion, and according to many regional bylaws) is that if you're on the water, in any capacity, you need to wear a life jacket or PFD (personal flotation device).

PFD should warn when paddling

I know the dangers can seem non-existent when paddling a stable boat in calm conditions, but you never know when something unexpected might come along, flip you into the water, and cause some real issues. If you have a PFD on at all times, then any potential blips are nullified even further.

While a vest makes the most sense in most situations, strong swimmers on a stand up paddleboard may prefer an inflatable PFD. This is worn like a fanny pack, and activated by pulling the auto-inflate tab when needed. For more beginner SUP tips feel free to read: SUP Tips for Beginners – Top 5 Lessons and How to SUP – Beginner’s Guide to Paddle Boarding. 

One other note on life jackets is that, given how slick and feature-rich they come these days, wearing one doesn't have to be a chore – it can be a bonus. I use the easy-access pockets to store my cell phone, sunscreen, chapstick, and any other little things that make sense to have on me while paddling. If you invest in a good PFD (that also fits well!), then you'll be more inclined to wear it. 

Helmets: WRSI Current Helmet
PFDs: NRS Chinook, NRS Zen PFD, NRS Odyssey PFD
Paddles: Bending Branches Angler Pro
Sunglasses: Wiley X

So even though I support paddlers making their own judgment calls, I also recommend everyone use caution. If in doubt, wear additional safety gear. I think paddling current and whitewater is super fun, but there are real risks that shouldn't be taken lightly. I hope you're feeling confident and excited for your next river-running adventure. Stay tuned for more paddling tips, gear reviews, and episodes of Paddle Tales on PaddleTV. 

The post When are Kayak Helmets Needed? appeared first on Hazeadventure.