How You'll be Using Your Kayak Fishing Paddle

When making a paddle selection there are a few things to consider. First, think about if you'll be using the paddle most of the time.

Even in pedal kayaks there may be times when it's too shallow to use that pedal drive. Plus, the drive could become inoperable if there's some kind of mechanical issue with one of the components. Either way, you'll need to break out a paddle to get where you want to go.

I stand up while I'm fishing quite a bit, so having a good paddle is super important to me.

Choosing a Kayak Fishing Paddle on Price

Now let's talk about the differences between paddles at various price points.

I don't have any paddles in the low end of the price range. So today, we'll be starting in the $100 to $150 range with the Bending Branches Angler Classic. To start with, the difference between paddles at different price points are materials, weight, and efficiency.

On a lower price point paddle in that $50 to $100 range you're going to have an aluminum frame and a plastic blade. That frame is going to be very flexible and have a lot of give. The same goes for plastic blades.

With materials like these you'll lose a lot of efficiency. Plus, you'll be carrying a lot more weight around all day. It may not seem like a big deal when we're talking about ounces. However, moving that little bit of extra weight over a long period of time adds up.

Bending Branches Angler Classic

All the paddles we'll be looking at today are in the Bending Branches Angler line.

We'll start with the Angler Classic which costs about $160. The Angler line goes from that starting point all the way to the top tier.

A few features come standard on paddles in the Angler line. One is that they all have a drip ring as well as a little notch cut into the blade. If you're wondering what the notch does, it allows you to retrieve hooks and lures. What you do is run your line through the notch and push the paddle down to the hook that's hung up below the surface.

The other thing all these paddles have is a measuring tape. I find that these come in really handy. This is especially true if you're a tournament angler who needs to cull fish before weigh-in.

If so, pulling a clunky board out every time you catch a fish can be a pain in the neck.

Angler Classic – Fiberglass Shaft and Polymer Fiberglass Blade

The Angler Classic has a fiberglass shaft and a polymer fiberglass blade. They're both far more efficient than their aluminum and plastic counterparts.

Since fiberglass doesn't flex as much, your energy will flow more efficiently through the paddle into the water. This means you'll move the boat easier without being too tired at the end of the day. It's also worth noting that it's quite a bit lighter.

Another big pro is that fiberglass is very durable. With the Angler Classic you don't need to be shy about pushing yourself off obstructions in the water which are common when you're kayaking.

Even if you stand up and move around frequently, you can use the paddle regardless of what position you're in.

There are also differences in the ferrule system. Some of these paddles can even be adjustable in length, but this is pretty standard for this price range. What you generally get is a fiberglass shaft with some type of polymer or fiberglass blade.

It's also a great starting point. I would definitely recommend that if you can't go any higher, at least try to get something in this price range.

If you can, you'll be a lot happier out on the water.

Angler Classic – Weight and Features

The Angler Classic comes in at 35 1/2 ounces. However, weight depends on paddle length.

As we take a look at these paddles you're going to notice that they all come with a drip ring. Many lower priced paddles don't come with drip rings. Essentially, drip rings stop water from flowing down the blade and shaft and ending up on your hands and lap. So they definitely keep you drier and more comfortable out on the water.

Angler Classics also have a snap button ferrule system which allows you to adjust the paddle to different angles. This is a big plus when you're paddling in the wind. It also makes it easy to tweak the paddle to match the motion of your stroke.

There are other options that will also allow you to adjust for the length in case you have multiple kayaks or you're moving from a high seat to a low seat position.

Don't Forget About Swing Weight

As we look through these different weights and materials, you'll also notice the difference in paddle swing weights. A big shout out to John at Paco Paddle for sending this one over. I think it's very important.

He suggests grabbing paddles and rocking, or swinging them back and forth when you're deciding which one to buy. By doing this you'll really feel the weight difference, especially in the blades.

As you move up in price point you'll notice that moving the paddles gets a lot easier. Weight is important because you'll be moving those paddles all day long out on the water. When you're going back and forth that little bit of extra weight really takes a toll. So keep that in mind as we move up the line and look at lighter materials.

And remember, those lighter materials are also going to add a lot of efficiency to your strokes.

Angler Ace

Moving up the line we have the Angler Ace which transitions into a carbon-fiber shaft.

This reduces weight right off the bat. The Angler Ace also has a carbon reinforced nylon blade which has even less flex than the Classic's blade.

The Angler Ace starts at around 30 ounces. So the weight savings here is about 5 1/2 ounces. Trust me, you can really feel the difference. And again, this is going to be very rigid and a lot more efficient out on the water.

This is my go-to paddle when I'm river fishing and pushing off lots of rocks and other obstructions in the shallows. It also works well when I'm stand-up fishing around oyster beds because the carbon reinforced blade can take a ton of punishment.

The price point here goes up to about $225, so there's a bump between the Angler Classic which comes in at around $160.

Angler Pro

Taking another step up the line we have the Angler Pro which costs about $325. So it's about a hundred dollars more than the Angler Ace.

The big difference here is the solid fiberglass blades. They're even stiffer and more efficient. You may already know this, but the more flex you have in your paddle the less efficient your strokes are going to be.

So as we move up the line these materials will add rigidity to the paddle to make it more efficient.

With paddles that don't flex, more power is transferred from your body to the water. This makes the whole process a lot more efficient. Unsurprisingly, more efficient strokes will move your kayak along easier with less effort.

This paddle also comes in at 28 1/2 ounces, but again, that'll vary depending on length.

Higher Price, Less Weight

As we compare various paddles you'll see that weight goes down as price goes up.

The Angler Pro is a great paddle if you'll be spending a lot of time in lakes and other large stretches of open water where you're not too worried about banging up the blade. However, this blade is super durable and I beat mine up quite a bit. In fact, it's the paddle I have on my Jackson Kayak Knarr most of the season in that nice Copperhead color.

Even so, I prefer to use this paddle in open water. When I know my paddle is going to take a beating on rocks and oyster shells I generally switch over to the Angler Ace.

Angler Pro Carbon

The Angler Pro Carbon is Bending Branches' top-of-the-line paddle.

It comes with a 100% carbon shaft like the Angler Ace and Angler Pro, but it has a carbon blade too. So with the Pro Carbon you get big weight savings and maximum stiffness, so it's the best of both worlds.

It tips the scales at just 25 1/2 ounces compared to where we started out at 34 ounces. That's almost a 10 ounce weight savings right there. This is the lightest paddle in the company's Angler line.

Again, those extra ounces definitely come into play when you're out on the water for long spells. This is even more true if you're in a big lake with lots of open water.

Angler Line Standard Features

With Angler line paddles you get this built in tape measure.

It's a very useful tool, but what I really like is these paddle's versatility and durability. This is a big deal because most of us use our paddles as general tools instead of just moving the boat.

I don't know about you, but I'm always pushing off things like rocks and sand. I also have a knack for beating up my gear while I'm fishing. In fact, I beat it up a lot more than I would if I was just paddling around for fun.

Cheap vs. Expensive Kayak Fishing Paddles Recap

There are a lot of different brands on the market, but I use a lot of Bending Branches products.

We've been partners for a very long time and I couldn't be happier with our relationship.

When you're considering paddles, make sure to think about all the things we looked at today. Here I'm talking about weight, rigidity, efficiency, and extra features. Price is definitely important, but it probably shouldn't be the only consideration.

I always recommend getting out in a kayak and trying out the paddles you're thinking about. By testing them in the real world you'll be able to see what feels right to you.

Of course, you also need a paddle that's the right length for you, your boat, and your style of fishing. And again, the main difference in paddles at various price points comes down to materials, weight, strength, and efficiency.

The more expensive materials are lighter, and as paddle prices increase the paddle also becomes more efficient. Efficiency is what gets your energy down the shaft, through the blade and into the water to move the boat. The more efficient your paddle, the more water will be able to cover while expending less energy.

In a nutshell, you really do get what you pay for when it comes to paddles.

Paddles: Bending Branches Angler Classic, Bending Branches Angler Ace, Bending Branches Angler Pro, Bending Branches Angler Pro Carbon
Fishing Kayaks: Jackson Kayak Knarr
Anchor: Power Pole Micro Anchor
Life vest: NRS Chinook PFD
Sunglasses: Wiley X

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Both the Sea Eagle 393 RazorLite and the Decathlon Itiwit X500 are inflatable touring kayaks. But what does that mean? Well, many inflatable kayaks are designed to be completely stable. However, these two kayaks both give up some stability for performance and to travel through the water more efficiently. These kayaks are intended to be fun to paddle and allow you to cover longer distances too. 

The reality is that both these inflatable kayaks are fantastic. However, there are some key differences between them. So, a better question to ask is, which kayak is better for you? 

Decathlon Itiwit X500 Specifications

Price: $1300
Length: 12’ 6”
Width: 25”
Weight: 35 LBS (16 kg)
Capacity: 275 LBS (125kg)

Sea Eagle 393 RazorLite Specifications

Price: $1100 (USD) (comes with a pump, bag, and paddle)
Length: 12’ 10”
Width: 28”
Weight: 35 LBS (16kg)
Capacity: 500 LBS (227kg)

Similarities: Sea Eagle 393 vs Decathlon Itiwit X500

On paper, the 393 and the X500 are similar in width, length, weight, and price. But beyond that, there are even more similarities. They both have real footpegs, raised seats, and drop-stitch construction. The inflatable tubes on a drop-stitch kayak are sewn together by thousands of threads. 

Therefore you can pump them up to a very high psi (10 psi), and they will become rigid and stiff. Drop stitch is an expensive upgrade but gives you a rigid kayak that performs similarly to a hard shell kayak. 

Differences Between the Sea Eagle 393 and the Decathlon Ititwit X500

An obvious difference between these kayaks is that the Decathlon Itiwit X500 is a sit-in kayak and has a closed deck. It even has cockpit combing that allows it to take a paddle skirt. The Sea Eagle 393, on the other hand, is wide open. It is almost like a canoe/kayak hybrid. 

The other, less obvious, difference is in the hull shape. The Sea Eagle 393 is more of a traditional inflatable kayak because it has a flat hull. It has a nicely shaped bow that helps it cut through the water. The surface of the hull is completely flat. Because of this, it needs to have a removable fin to help it track through the water. 

On the other hand, the Decathlon Itiwit X500 is a drop-stitch kayak without a flat bottom. Much like traditional hard shell kayaks, the Itiwit has a V hull. The bow and V-shaped hull allow it to cut through the water, hold its line and track well. That is why the Itiwit X500 does not come with a removable fin. It does not need one. 

Speed

One of the most important factors I like to test when comparing kayaks is their speed. Does the V-shaped hull make the Itiwit X500 travel faster? The only way to tell this was to take both kayaks out for a whirl and see how quickly they go. 

I tested both kayaks to see how fast I went at 75% of my top speed and 100% top speed. At 75%, my average speed in the Sea Eagle 393 was 5.2 mph (8.4kmh), and my top speed was 6.4 mph (10.3 kmh). Both of which are very respectable speeds. In the Decathlon Itiwit X500, my average speed at 75% was 5 mph (8.04 kmh), while my top speed was 6.7 mph (10.7 kmh). 

So, the Sea Eagle 393 had a slightly higher cruising speed, but the Itiwit X500 had a higher top speed. It is safe to say that these kayaks are very similar in speed. 

Comfort

Comfort-wise, both these kayaks are very similar. They both have comfortable raised foam seats and fixed foot pegs. The main difference is the open deck on Sea Eagle 393. It allows you to sit in almost any position you want. You can even hang your legs over the side if you want a change of scene! So the open deck gives the Sea Eagle 393 a slight edge in comfort. 

Stability

Both kayaks are a similar width. The Sea Eagle 393 says it is 28”, but it is 25” at the water line, which is the same width as the Itiwit X500. Although neither kayak makes you feel rock solid and invincible on the water, they both feel like stable kayaks. They trade some stability to get higher performance. 

One difference is that the Itiwit X500, when held on edge, has slightly better secondary stability. It locks into the secondary position comfortably. Secondary stability only matters when you are kayaking in windy or rough conditions. But it is worth noting. 

Performance

It was immediately apparent that the Sea Eagle 393 tracks much better than the X500. This is due to the large removable fin on the back of the Sea Eagle 393. On the other hand, the X500 was much more maneuverable. It was easier to tilt and turn. It acted far more like a hard shell kayak of a similar class. 

Where Does the Sea Eagle 393 RazorLite Excel?

The Sea Eagle 393 is designed for calm conditions. That is where it excels due to its open design. If you paddle the Sea Eagle 393 in wavy, rough conditions, it will not sink. However, it will become easily swamped and bogged down with water. It is not designed for conditions where you need to deal with waves, rough conditions, or white water. It is a calm water boat. 

The Sea Eagle 393 is also an incredibly comfortable kayak. Sit inside kayaks can give some people a feeling of claustrophobia, but because the Sea Eagle 393 is open, it feels spacious and roomy. The only drawback of the open deck is that you cannot use it in rough water. 

The Sea Eagle 393 shines when it comes to its capacity. The capacity of the Sea Eagle 393 is 500 LBS. This is almost double the capacity of the Itiwit X500. The 393, with its large capacity, opens up the opportunity for kayak camping. You can easily load the 393 with bags and heavy equipment. You can even bring a child or a dog along too. The huge capacity of the Sea Eagle 393 makes it a more versatile kayak. 

Where Does the Decathlon Itiwit X500 Excel?

The Itiwit X500 excels in a variety of conditions. It can handle far rougher conditions than the Sea Eagle 393. There are a few reasons why. The biggest reason is that it is a sit-inside kayak and can take a paddle skirt. Therefore you can take it in rough water without risking any swamping. 

The other thing the Itiwit X500 allows you to do is roll the kayak. The skirt will stop water from getting in when you roll. But, on top of that, there is enough fabric that you can grip with your knees so that you can get enough purchase to roll the kayak. 

That being said, the cockpit combing is small and cannot take every skirt. Decathlon sells a specific skirt to use on the Itiwit X500, but the kayak has a narrow rand, so the skirt does not provide a strong seal. So there are limitations to your ability to use it in rough water. In rough conditions, a wave might cause the spray skirt to pop off. This would allow the water to swamp the kayak. 

The other area that the X500 excels in is its handling. It handles like a hard shell kayak due to the V-shaped hull. It turns when you put it on the edge, and it can deal with wind much better than the Sea Eagle 393. Overall, it is much easier to maneuver than the 393. 

Who Are These Kayaks For?

The Decathlon Itiwit X500 is for someone who wants a kayak where they can wear a skirt. They can see themselves taking their kayak into rough water. It is also for someone willing to pay more to get that feature. 

On the other hand, the Sea Eagle 393 RazorLite is for somebody who intends to paddle in calm conditions. It is for someone who would like increased capacity to bring a child, a dog, or plenty of camping gear. It is also for someone who wants to save money. Not only is the Sea Eagle 393 slightly cheaper than the Itiwit X500, but it also includes paddles and a pump. 

Both of these kayaks are fantastic kayaks. So you need to choose which kayak is right for you, not which kayak is better! 

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Delta Kayak 15.5 GT Specifications

Price: $2350 (USD)
Length: 15’ 5”
Width: 24”
Weight: 49 LBS (22 KG)
Capacity: 400 LBS (181 KG)
Best Use: All conditions touring

How Delta Kayaks Make the 15.5 GT

There are three methods used to make kayaks: 

• Composite kayaks. These are carbon kevlar or flaxweed. These are very lightweight, high-performance, and expensive.
• Rotomolded kayaks are the other end of the spectrum. To make these, they pour plastic into a mold, heat it, and spin it until the plastic coats the inside of the mold. Next, they pop the mold and, voila, you have a kayak. These kayaks are extremely durable. You can bounce them about on rocks and get nothing more than a few scratches. 
• The middle ground method is thermoformed kayaks. The Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is a thermoformed kayak. To make a thermoformed kayak, they mold the top and the bottom of the kayak separately and then weld them together. Because of this, the plastic is much thinner, stiffer, and harder. Thermoform kayaks are higher performing and lighter than rotomolded kayaks but are less durable and can crack more easily.

Comfort

The seat system in the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is very comfortable. Even after two hours of kayaking, I was still completely comfortable. The back band is adjustable, so I could set it up to provide excellent lower back support. The back band is easy to adjust while in the kayak. It locks it into place using the cleat system in the front of the cockpit. 

There are no hip pads which could be a helpful addition. But the foot peg system is great and feels solid to push on. 

The standard Delta Kayak 15.5 GT comes with a skeg but the version I tested had a rudder. I did not use this in the shallower, quicker water where I tested the kayak, but it would be great for wide, open water. 

Overall, the Delta 15.5 GT is a very comfortable boat with plenty of foot room. Even as someone tall, I have plenty of room. That suggests this kayak would still be comfortable for bigger people than me. You could be any size up to 6’ 5” or a 36” inseam before you max the kayak out. 

Stability

At 24” wide, the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is not designed for stability, but it is still an incredibly stable kayak. It is easy to get in and out of and has excellent secondary stability when you hold it on edge. It is solid and unlikely to flip.

Value

The Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is the first Delta kayak that I have been able to try and I am impressed with it. While it is not a cheap kayak, it is not extremely expensive for a kayak of this sort. Comparably composite kayaks of a similar nature can cost anything between $3000-6000 (USD). So for what it is, $2350 (USD) is not an unreasonable price. 

As a kayak, it has nice finishings and seems like a well-thought-out boat. It has certain features, including the build, that really stand out as high quality. 

One of these is the hatch system. It has a huge day hatch in the front which has plenty of space to store useful items. I love having an easy-to-access hatch, but hate when the hatch is too small to store much. On the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT, the day hatch is easy to access and a great size. As with all touring kayaks, this hatch is water resistant, not waterproof, so you should expect it to get a little wet. 

The bow and stern hatches are also a good size with plenty of room. You could easily take the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT on a camping trip. The hatches are easy to take on and off and are secured tightly using a bungee system. 

So, all in all, it feels like a very quality kayak with well-thought-out features. 

Performance

I tested the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT on various types of rapids. This meant I could test the kayak in various touring conditions. 

Performance on Class 1 Rapids

A kayak like the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is not designed to run rapids. Due to the length of the Delta 15.5 GT, it is not easy to maneuver quickly. It acts more like a raft meaning that much of your success on a rapid is about establishing your line in advance. There is not a lot of room for movement once in the waves. Experience reading white water plays a large role in your experience taking the Delta 15.5 GT down rapids. 

The bow is nice and high so it sheds the water beautifully. So, it can be a fun kayak to paddle if you can choose a good line. 

Performance on Class 2 Rapids

To take the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT down the Blakeney rapids, a set of class 2 rapids (in this season), I popped a paddle skirt on the kayak and scouted to check the water level. A thermoformed kayak like the Delta 15.5 GT can take some knocks and bumps but is less able to take big hits as they can crack. So it is important to check out any class 2 rapids and ensure they are not too shallow before you take the 15.5 GT down them. 

The Delta Kayak 15.5 GT survived the run which is a testament to a great boat with a high-quality build. That said, I wouldn’t want to take it down rapids like this very often. It probably took a year off the boat’s life from just this trip. The bottom is pretty scraped up and will need a polish to feel smooth afterward. 

Who is The Delta Kayak 15.5 GT For?

The Delta Kayak 15.5 GT is a touring kayak and not a high-performance touring kayak. As a touring kayak, it has two bulkheads (one in front of the feet and one behind the seat)and can remain buoyant when swamped. Bulkheads make it much easier to empty a swamped kayak and re-enter the boat when on wide, open water. It also has thigh hooks and a small cockpit which takes a skirt. This makes it rollable. Therefore it is a step up from a recreational kayak. 

The Delta 15.5 GT is for someone who wants a touring kayak that can be taken on almost any water. It is not designed for high-end rough water but can deal with it. If you know you will be dealing with lots of high-end rough water, you should purchase a higher-performance touring kayak. But this kayak can confidently deal with all conditions if they arise. 

It is not a kayak for anyone. You do need to be able to have the money to afford a kayak like this. But if you have the money and are looking for an all-around touring kayak that can do anything, then this is a kayak to consider. 

Overall Review of the Delta Kayak 15.5

I really like the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT. Many people have recommended Delta Kayaks to me, and having tried the 15.5 GT, I now see why. It is a beautiful, well-made craft. It is comfortable, light, fast, and stable on the water. All in all, it is a great all-around kayak. So two thumbs up for the Delta Kayak 15.5 GT. 

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The Basic Draw Stroke

The basic draw stroke involves reaching out your blade to the side of your kayak, about level with your hip. You then need to put the blade fully into the water. After that, just pull your body and the boat toward the blade. 

For the most effective stroke, rotate your upper body to face your active blade. Plant your blade completely in the water and get your paddle shaft as vertical as possible. Getting your paddle shaft vertical means pushing your top hand fully across the kayak. This can put you in a bit of an unstable position. So when learning the stroke you can lower your hand to face-level instead. With confidence, you can start reaching over the side of the kayak. 

With your blade completely in the water, you will pull your lower hand towards the hip. Your top hand should stay fairly stationary during these motions to act as a pivot for the stroke. 

Before the blade reaches the side of the boat, stop the stroke, and slice your blade back out away from the boat. If you let the blade come right against the kayak it can get a little tippy. 

A common problem people face with the draw stroke is that instead of the kayak moving laterally, it starts turning. This is because every kayak draws differently. If you find that the bow is starting to turn then it probably means you are drawing too close to the front of the kayak and vice versa. You have to find the happy medium – the hip is a good starting point. 

Knifing Draw Stroke or T-Stroke

The idea of the t-stroke is that once the blade gets close to the side of the boat, instead of slicing it out to the back of the kayak, you keep it moving. To do this, once the blade is by the side of the kayak, curl your wrist forward and spin the blade 90 degrees. This lets you take the blade directly back to where it started to begin a new stroke. 

The benefit of this is that you are in control of the kayak the whole time. Additionally, you can make strokes a lot quicker. 

The Sculling Draw Stroke

This is the next evolution of the draw stroke. This is a stroke that I use all the time because it lets you fine-tune your position in the water. 

It starts in very much the same way as the basic draw. You turn your head and body to face the active blade and, with your paddle shaft as vertical as possible, engage your blade in the water. This lets you provide the most lateral pressure on the water.

The difference here is the motion of the blade. Instead of just drawing the blade towards the hip, you make a sculling motion to apply steady and even pressure on the paddle. This bypasses the whole recovery phase that the basic and knifing draw deal with. 

The key to the sculling draw is the motion of the blade through the water. The blade moves in a small path forward and backward along the side of the kayak, about two feet out from the side of the kayak. 

The trick here is that the leading edge of the blade needs to be higher than the trailing edge. As I am pushing forward I will cock my wrist back a little, and as I am pushing back I will curl my wrist forwards. You can almost think of it like buttering bread. When you spread butter onto bread, if your knife doesn’t have a climbing angle on it you are just going to dig into the bread. And that is the same with sculling: the leading edge has to be higher than the trailing edge. 

By doing this motion vertically you spread even pressure onto the power face of your paddle (the side of the blade you take a forward stroke with) and that draws your kayak sideways. 

Top Tips for Draw Stroke

1. Be Subtle

You can change the angle of the paddle but these need to be subtle. If the changes in angle are not subtle you could effectively be just doing forwards and backwards strokes in the water! 

2. Use Your Core

The paddle motion is not driven by your arms but by your core. The way you do that is by turning your upper body and keeping your top hand in a relatively stable position. You just need to move your paddle by rotating your upper body. The arms are only responsible for changing the angle of your paddle. 

The reason to use your core is that the muscles in your torso and core are way more powerful than those in your arms. So it makes sense to harness that power! 

The sculling draw stroke is a very effective way to travel sideways in the water. But it goes beyond that: by mastering the sculling draw you are improving your paddle dexterity. You are developing a better understanding of how slight changes in blade movement and angle in the water impact the movement of your boat. This comes into play in so many different ways as you progress as a paddler. So I would highly recommend that you take the time to learn the sculling draw along with other forms of the draw stroke for kayaking. 

Introducing the Hurricane Tampico 130! For this tip I used the Tampico 130. This is a great thermoformed kayak. The thermoformed plastic is much lighter and helps for a much easier day on the water. I recently took this kayak to the Okefenokee and did a full in-depth review. Check out my Kayak Camping in the Okefenokee Swamp journal and my Review of the Hurricane Tampico 130

Kayak: Hurricane Tampico 130
Paddles:  Aqua Bound Manta Ray Hybrid
PFD:   NRS Odyssey PFD (Touring and Rec)
Clothing:  NRS Short Sleeved Guide Shirt
Sunglasses: Wiley X

The post Draw Stroke for Kayaking appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Today I want to share with you a few tips on how to fish the San Marcos River in Texas. Took me a bit to break it down, but think I have the formula for success!

We fished with the guys from TG Canoe and Kayak, and they recommended lighter white and white-chartreuse baits that imitated shad. They also suggested chatter baits, spinner baits, and swim jigs, but on our trip, the fish weren’t cooperating. 

I decided to go to my finesse stuff which is what I usually do when the fish aren’t biting. Even in tough conditions, I can usually catch fish on a ned rig or a Senko. In San Marcos, the Senko really came through for me. 

The Rods and Reels I Used in San Marcos

When fishing the Senko, I used a 7-foot Judge from Rain Shadow. It’s actually a crankbait blank, but I had it set up as a spinning rod. 

It has more of a moderate action because it transitions from fiberglass to graphite. Graphite gives me plenty of backbone to pull fish out of cover but has a softer tip. The best use rods with softer tips when fishing from a kayak. These rods are lot more forgiving when I'm high-sticking and trying to land fish quickly. 

Reel: 3000 Series Shimano reel.
Line: Seaguar Smackdown in Low-Vis Stealth Gray. I like using Stealth Gray when I'm finesse fishing because the fish can’t see the line very well. I always run a top shot of Seaguar Gold Label fluorocarbon too. 

In this scenario, I used 15 to 20-pound test which is nearly invisible to the fish. It helped me get away using a slightly heavier line than you normally would. 

San Marcos Bass Loved Senkos and JackHammers

Oddly enough, I had the most luck with a darker color Senko than what the guys at TG recommended. I kind of stumbled onto this by chance because I only had natural colors like watermelon with blue and purple flakes. 

First I rigged a 5-inch Senko wacky-style using the Wacky rig tool. I prefer a Gamakatsu drop shot weedless hook over other wacky rig or wacky-style hook setups. I get better hook sets and more hookups when I’m using an o-ring on the bait.

Choosing the Right Colored Baits

The darker Senkos worked well, but then I decided to try something different to land some bigger fish. I had a white JackHammer tied on and I hadn't had much luck on anything in the lighter color range. I picked up the 7-foot, medium-heavy Judge that I have rigged up as a bait caster. This is also a crankbait blank, but it works well for throwing heavier JackHammers. 

In this scenario, I was using a half-ounce JackHammer on a moderate rod. When a fish comes up and shakes its head the action is going to be a little more forgiving. I like having more forgiveness in the tip. It’s also nice having the graphite down in the backbone of the rod. This gives me the power I need to set the hook and muscle fish out of cover. 

Fishing Line Used

On this setup, I had 30-pound test Seaguar Smackdown in Flash Green. The JackHammer is a moving bait that I usually swim pretty quickly, so I’m not too worried about the fish seeing the line, but I can see it at all times. 

But that being said, I still always tip that with at least 20-pound fluorocarbon, and in San Marcos, I used Seaguar Gold Label which is very strong, nearly invisible, and smaller in diameter than some of the other fluorocarbon leaders out there.

I was using a half-ounce JackHammer in bruised green pumpkin with black and blue flakes mixed in, and I tipped it with either a black and purple or blue and purple Razor Shad from Z-Man. Since the bait is designed to work with chatter baits, it gave the JackHammer a really nice swimming action. 

I only caught one fish on this so I wouldn’t say that a pattern emerged, but I only had it on for a few minutes and probably only made four or five casts. So I’m not sure if the fish liked the darker color or just happened to be in the area and would’ve pounced on anything I threw.

San Marcos Recap

What worked best for me in San Marcos was the 5-inch Senko rigged wacky-style in watermelon green and purple, but I caught the biggest fish on the bruised pumpkin JackHammer tipped with a black and purple or blue and purple Razor Shad. 

When throwing the Senko, I used a medium action 7-foot Judge with a 3000 Series Shimano spinning reel and 20-pound Stealth Gray Seaguar Smackdown with either a 15 or 20-pound test Gold Label fluorocarbon leader.

For the JackHammer, I used the 7-foot medium-heavy Judge blank from Rain Shadow which has a moderate-fast action that I set up as a bait caster with 30-pound Seaguar Smackdown and 20-pound Gold Label fluorocarbon leader.

These rod, reel, and bait combos did the trick in San Marcos because they helped me put fish in the boat during some pretty tough conditions. 

Further Reading

There is a full article on my expedition to the San Marcos River here: Black Bass Fishing the San Marcos River, TX. Enjoy!

Rods:
– 7’ Medium Rainshadow Judge
– 7’ MH Rainshadow Judge
Reels and line combos:
– Shimano Vanford 3000 reel spooled with 20lb Seaguar Smackdown in Flash Green and a 12lb Seaguar Gold Label Fluorocarbon leader
– Shimano Chronarch 150 HG spooled with 30lb Seaguar Smackdown in Flash Green and a 20lb Seaguar Gold Label Fluorocarbon Leader
Bait rigs:
– 5” green pumpkin and purple flake Yamamoto Senko rigged wacky
– 1/2 oz Z-Man Jackhammer chatterbait in bruised green pumpkin tipped with a black and blue laminate Razor Shadz

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The post Fishing the San Marcos River Texas appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Before jumping in, I want to mention that sight fishing can get you into trouble! Once you start, it’s how you’ll want to fish most of the time. 

I recommend investing in a decent pair of polarized sunglasses because they reduce glare, help you see down into the water, and allow you to differentiate between fish and other objects like weeds and logs.  I use the WileyX Twisted glasses on this adventure.

Sight Fishing Basics

When sight fishing is to stand up in your boat or kayak to give yourself the best possible view of the water. Next, scan for signs of active fish like tails, fins, and swirls. 

Look for different water

Keep an eye out for any patch of water that looks different from what’s around it. Just remember that the differences can be subtle, so it’s important to be observant. Also look for shadows, outlines of fish, and things that look like sticks moving through the water. 

You’ll need to be quiet and stealthy and be able to transition quickly from your paddle (or whatever you're using to move the boat) to your rod. And of course, good boat position is imperative too. 

PowerPole Micro Anchor

On a recent outing, I kept getting blown into the area where redfish were feeding. I was able to catch a lot of them by using my PowerPole Micro Anchor to stop the boat from drifting into the school. If you don’t have a power pole, you can shove your paddle or oar into the sand or mud to stop or slow your drift. This will prevent you from ending up on top of the fish and spooking or scattering them. 

If you get too wrapped up in fishing and just let the boat drift when the wind is blowing, you can get moving pretty quickly. By the time you realize what’s happening it may be too late to do anything about it, so stay alert and be aware of the conditions and your surroundings.  

Windy conditions present challenges

Ruining a good spot in windy conditions is fairly easy. Nothing’s worse than wasting valuable time fishing water with no fish. Whether in tight groups or loose schools, redfish tend to stick together, so keep moving if you’re not seeing any fish or surface activity. Once you find what you’re looking for, slow down, keep your distance, and be as quiet as possible.  

Instant Feedback when Sight Casting

One of the coolest things about sight casting is that it provides instant feedback. Sometimes fish are super aggressive and will hit anything you toss into the water.

Other times they’re tentative and will only follow the bait or strike short. You’ll have to play with line and leader weight, lure size and color, and presentation until you find a combination that works. You’ll see how the fish react with each change, and it shouldn’t take long to figure out what they want and what they don’t.  

I’ve had days when a sixteenth of an ounce or one change in hook size made a huge difference even when the lures were identical otherwise. Sometimes you’ll need to slow down and let the bait sink when the redfish won’t take a lure that’s high in the water. Other times they’ll be feeding aggressively near the surface but will slow down as the day progresses. Whatever the case, instant feedback can be a real game changer. 

Try Sight Fishing With Other Species!

Now that you have all these tips, give sight casting a try next time you’re fishing for redfish or bass. If it’s sunny and the wind isn’t too bad, stand up, throw on your polarized glasses, scan the water for fins, tails, and swirls. Keep moving until you come across active fish. Chances are you’ll get the hang of sight fishing quickly. When you do your mind will automatically start doing the work for you so you can concentrate on putting more fish in the boat.   

Read More Fishing Tips and Trips

Check out my most recent adventure journal post: Black Bass Fishing the San Marcos River, TX and a great tip on knots I used for redfish can be read here: Palomar Knot Tying for Fishing.

Sunglasses: Wiley X
PFD: Chinook Fishing Kayak Lifejacket
Kayak: Jackson Kayak Knarr
Rods: 7’ Medium Rainshadow Judge, 7’ MH Rainshadow Judge
Paddle: Bending Branches Angler Pro Versa-Lok
Gear Box: Yakattack Blackpack Pro
Hoodie: Men's Silkweight Varial Hoodie
Paddle Holder: Yakattack Rotogrip
Rod Holders: Yakattack Omega Rod Holder, AR Tube Rod Holder
Camera mounts: Yakattack Panfish Pro, Yakattack Broomstick Pro
Footwear: XTRATUF Kiata Waterproof Sneakers

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If you enjoyed this article and are hungry for more adventure fishing tips, tricks, reviews, and adventures, head on over to the Road Trip Angler YouTube channel and feel free to sign up for our Hazeadventure.com newsletter. 

The post Sight Fishing Tips: Redfish appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Best kayak for fishing rivers?

A sit-on-top hardshell is an excellent choice, and definitely the way to go for kayak anglers. A sit-on-top inflatable is a good choice if you don't mind sacrificing some performance and are mindful of the maintenance. Sit-inside hardshell kayaks can cut it in modest current, but will swamp if tipped over. If you ‘re looking to really attack the rapids, then nothing beats a whitewater kayak. Whitewater kayaks have spray skirts and these aren't a friendly fishing boat.

When it comes to fishing on rivers, many people prefer a sit-on-top hardshell kayak. Pedal kayaks have improved leaps and bounds over the years. For current, shallow spots, and rapids a paddle kayak is a great way to go for kayak fishing on rivers. 

Sitting Position for River Anglers

Quality fishing kayaks typically have seats that can adopt a high or low position. While casting out over calm waters, the high position offers a better vantage point to what lies beneath the surface. However, when you encounter some current, be sure to drop down into the low position, since this is a much more stable setup. 

Packing for Kayak Fishing Rivers

Packing for a kayak fishing trip will look quite different for a river run compared to a lake outing. My suggestion is to pack light, or as us river paddlers like to say: “Rig to flip”. Even if you know what you're doing and the river is relatively mild, it is always best to expect to flip. Then when this happens, all of your gear will be properly attached and stowed so that you don't lose anything.

Hard lessons

I learned this lesson the hard way while doing a 3-week paddling trip through the Grand Canyon. After an unexpected capsized raft, we lost all the food for the trip. Everything! So needless to say, that put a bit of a damper on the expedition. 

Selective packing

The best way to prevent losing valuable goods is to be more selective with your packing. Bring less rods; bring less tackle. This may mean some tough pre-game decisions. You'll be grateful for the minimal approach not only in terms of mitigating damage, but also for boosting performance. A bogged down kayak will be slower and less responsive across those winding and ever-changing waterways. 

How do you handle rocks while paddling rivers?

One of the main concerns kayakers have while paddling rivers is how to handle rocks. At any time, kayakers may find themselves getting pulled into sizeable rocks by the current. This happens more easily while fishing, since the focus tends to be elsewhere. Most people's natural reaction when drifting sideways into a rock is to lean away from it. This is an example of where our instincts mislead us.

Lean into the rock

You'll actually want to lean into the rock. The reason for this is that the current that's pushing into you will gain purchase on the kayak's edge (if you're leaning away from the rock/into the current) and flip the kayak remarkably quick! Conversely, if you lean into the rock/with the direction of flow, this will give the water a path under the boat, which will keep you upright until you're able to slowly push yourself around the rock and get on with your day. 

What's the best way to anchor a kayak?

The same principles for navigating rocks on the river apply to anchoring a kayak in current. If you like to drop an anchor while fishing on a river, it's important that you don't have the boat positioned perpendicular to the current. Once again, the force of the flowing water will pile up on the kayak's edge and flip you before you even know what's happening.

Anchoring a kayak

To be perfectly honest, I don't recommend anchoring at all while fishing rivers, but if you are set on doing so, you'll either have to maintain a downstream tilt (which is not easy to do), or drop the anchor from the ends of your kayak so that you're kayak points downstream (but beware that strong enough current will still accumulate and potentially cause problems). Keep in mind that if you want to linger in one spot, you can always beach your kayak and cast out from the shore. 

Flowing rivers can be great places to catch fish because they tend to be untapped wells. However, the reason these spots are less visited is because the current, rocks, and rapids can be difficult to manage, especially while trying to split your attention. But if you pack light, avoid anchoring, and act smart around rocks, you'll be set up nicely to snag big fish while going with the flow. 

Kayaks: Jackson Kayak Coosa, Jackson Kayak YuPik
Paddle: Bending Branches Angler Pro Versa-Lok
PFDs: NRS Zen (Product Details)
Clothing: NRS Guide Shirt, NRS Benny Board Shorts
Sunglasses: Wiley X

I hope you enjoyed this article. For more paddling/fishing content, check out PaddleTV, and sign up for our Hazeadventure newsletter to be notified of the latest and greatest tips, gear reviews, and outdoor excursions. 

The post Tips for Kayak Fishing Rivers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Black Bass Fishing Paradise

Large populations of black bass call these bodies of water home. There is just something about exploring moving water in hopes of landing a big one that I cannot resist. As the brand manager of fishing at Jackson Kayak, I was excited to make the long journey south and a bit West to the San Marcos Rive. It is one of the most pristine paradises for black bass fishing.

Jackson Kayak has been working on our newest model, the Coosa X, for over a year. It was specifically designed for river fishing.  The new Coosa X is designed for areas where you need to float shallow, turn quickly, and handle whitewater to get to where the fish like to hangout. 

TG Canoes and Kayaks

Just off the banks of the San Marcos River, in San Marcos TX, a family-owned kayak shop called TG Canoes and Kayaks has been in business for decades. Owned by Dwayne, Evelyn and their son, Alex, TG is a long-standing Jackson Kayak dealer. I could think of no better place to spend some time trying out a brand-new river fishing kayak than with these awesome people in their great environment. The plan was set.

When we arrived, a decision was made to float from TG to a popular take out about 3 miles downriver. This would take us through a couple of small rapids. It provided us with ample opportunity to test the boat and target some hungry bass.

Even though it had rained the day before, the water conditions were low and relatively clear. Picking the brains of Dwayne and Alex, I took their advice and rigged up with a white Chatterbait and a white trailer. I am probably most confident with a Chatterbait tied on, so I felt right at home.

As soon as we hit the water I was met with a unique landscape where giant Cyprus trees lined the bank and limestone rock protruded from the river. I have had the opportunity to fish a few rivers in TX, but this one was for sure unique. I had no idea where to cast. So I began to hit every ‘fishy’ looking spot to try and develop a pattern.

New rivers need patience

Casting my bait behind rocks, along the bank, around the tree roots, and on every piece of wood I came across, I was anticipating a bite. However, the bite just didn’t come. I could see that Alex was beginning to get frustrated as well and I understood why.

Every time I take someone new to one of my favorite spots, the fish somehow sense this and decide to make me look like a fool for bragging about how good it can be. I had no doubt that this stretch of river held fish, I just didn’t know what they were hitting yet.

Anytime I am struggling to get a bite, there is one set up that will usually make it happen. Now this is not my favorite way to fish for a few reasons. For starters I like to fish moving baits. To cover a lot of water and get that reaction bite. I also feel that with larger baits like a Chatterbait or spinnerbait I get bigger bites. But when times are tough, I turn to the trusty Senko.

Z-Man vs the Senko for Black Bass

A wacky rigged Senko allowed to slowly sink into to an eddy, especially one with a ball of Cyprus roots, simply cannot be resisted…by any size fish. Dwayne and Alex have extensive knowledge on this river, so I reluctantly put the Z-Man Jackhammer Chatterbait away and tied on the only color Yamamoto Senko I had which was green pumpkin with purple flakes. Almost immediately I began to catch fish. The pattern was found. The next step was to locate the big ones.

Taking a short break from the fishing, Dwayne and Alex were anxious to try the Coosa X out in some of the rapids. We pulled over just below one of the drops and began to take turns playing in the small wave. I was very excited to hear their feedback and to see how the boat handled the challenges that a river presents.

New Coosa X was Fun

I am happy to say that the boat was a hit! Falling right were we wanted with a nice blend of stability and maneuverability. Dwayne and Alex are river people who fish and float rivers every chance they get. They have supported the paddling and fishing community for many years, so to have their approval of the boat was a big win for Jackson Kayak. Now back to the fishing!

Bigger Black Bass in the Slack Water

I noticed that the bigger fish were hanging more in the slack water between the rapids than in the current breaks near the rapids. I would basically cast in and around any structure or tree that I came near and let the bait fall naturally as possible. Being careful to keep slight tension on the line so I could feel the subtle bite.

Most of the fish were under a pound. It was fun to finally feel the tug on the other end of the line. Everyone had figured out a pattern that worked. The bite got a bit better as the day went on, but still no big fish had been caught.

As we approached one of the final straight stretches, I began to panic a bit. Another reason Senko fishing is not always my first choice is you tend to go through a lot of baits. They just don’t hold up to repetitive bites or fish catches and I was running out.

Lost the Senko

That was it. I was back to the drawing board as my last Senko came off while fighting a small bass. With only a small amount of river left ahead I decided to go big or go home. I mean this was my last day on the river anyway so why not risk it all.

I pulled out my Chatterbait box and pondered over the type and color choices that lay before me. Armed with the knowledge that green pumpkin and purple flake seemed to be working I chose a Z-Man Jackhammer in bruised green pumpkin, which is a combination of green pumpkin, blue, and black.

Z-Man Razor Shad

I added a Z-Man Razor Shad in black and blue and began to make a few casts. Moments later I noticed that the group had pulled over to discuss filming the next sections of rapids that would prove to be the most technical. Not hard by any means but narrow with some sharp turns.

As I approached the group, I decided to keep fishing while listening to the plan. I was just feet away from everyone I continued to make casts down river. A group of lily pads lined the right bank. Even though I had not caught fish near anyone else, something told me to make a cast parallel and just in front of them.

Fish on!

As I brought the bait back, I felt that thump that all anglers live for!  A solid fish slammed the Chatterbait and began to fight. I yelled “I have a good one” just as it surfaced with a big headshake. I could hear a collective gasp from the audience.

The cheering and poking began immediately with shouts of “nice” and “don’t lose ’em”. The pressure was on. It seemed like an eternity. Several jumps later the fight finally came to an end. I was able to get a grip on the bass’ mouth and bring it in the boat! I could not have been happier. With only a small stretch of river left to go I had pulled off a nice one!

After getting a few photos and celebrating it was time to run the last stretch of rapids. We were going to meet Evelyn at the takeout. The trip to St. Marcos was short lived with only a few days to spend with such wonderful people.

Jackson Kayak Team

I have only named Dwayne, Evelyn, and Alex. Several of the Jackson Kayak team and one of their shop paddlers, Justin, had been along with us as well. As always, it was great to spend time on the water with like-minded people, sharing our passion. I can’t wait to return to this beautiful location and spend more time chasing these lively river bass.

Paddles: Bending Branches Angler Pro Versa-Lok, Bending Branches Angler Navigator Versa-Lok
Rods: 7’ Medium Rainshadow Judge, 7’ MH Rainshadow Judge
Reels and line combos:
– Shimano Vanford 3000 reel spooled with 20lb Seaguar Smackdown in Flash Green and a 12lb Seaguar Gold Label Fluorocarbon leader
– Shimano Chronarch 150 HG spooled with 30lb Seaguar Smackdown in Flash Green and a 20lb Seaguar Gold Label Fluorocarbon Leader
Bait rigs:
– 5” green pumpkin and purple flake Yamamoto Senko rigged wacky
– 1/2 oz Z-Man Jackhammer chatterbait in bruised green pumpkin tipped with a black and blue laminate Razor Shadz

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If you enjoyed this article and are hungry for more adventure fishing tips, tricks, reviews, and adventures, head on over to the Road Trip Angler YouTube channel and feel free to sign up for our Hazeadventure.com newsletter. 

The post Black Bass Fishing the San Marcos River, TX appeared first on Hazeadventure.

Paddling rivers demands certain skills from the kayaker, and specific design traits from the boat. In this article, I'll unpack the different kayaks used for river trips so that you have a solid baseline to select the best kayaks for rivers.

What are the best kayaks for rivers?

Generally speaking, the best kayaks for rivers are ones that are stable. Kayaks that are shorter in length, more maneuverable, and won't “swamp” easily are the best kayaks for rivers. In my opinion/experience, there are four types of kayaks that check these boxes: sit on top kayaks, sit on top inflatable kayaks, recreational sit inside kayaks, and whitewater kayaks. Let's look a little closer at each style. 

Sit On Top Kayak

Sit on top kayaks are reliably stable, comfortable to sit in with adjustable seats in the higher-end models. Any water that comes aboard will simply drain back out through the scupper holes. If you happen to flip while you're out there, you can either just right the ship and climb back on, or you can drag it ashore more easily than a sit-inside that's full of water. 

Inflatable Kayak

Contrary to (somewhat) popular belief, inflatable kayaks can be amazing river-running boats. They're as comfortable as a floating lounge-chair, but quality models are surprisingly durable (as long as some care and attention is given). Inflatable kayaks also tend to be spectacularly stable.

You'll be amazed how difficult it is to flip one of these, even in rough conditions. I consider them the 4×4 of the kayaking world. The main drawback here is that they are rarely high-performing crafts – certainly not compared to a hardshell of the same class. But if you just want to chug along casually, a sit-on-top inflatable is a perfect way to go. 

Sit Inside Kayak

Sit inside kayaks aren't ideal for whitewater rivers, but if the current is consistently mild, then there's no reason why you can't take an everyday kayak down your local waterway. If you do tip over the kayak, the cockpit will swamp. This probably means swimming while dragging the boat to shore in order to empty it out. But if you like the feel of a sit-inside kayak and want to really get after it on the river, just be aware of any strong current.

Whitewater Kayak

A whitewater kayak is the ultimate high-performance sit inside kayak. These playful boats can handle anything from Class 1 moving water to Class 5 waterfalls. They have small cockpits (where you sit inside) that are designed to be sealed from the water with a skirt.

These river kayaks are short and wide (i.e. stable and maneuverable). The only real limitations of whitewater kayaks are those imposed by us whitewater kayakers. If you are starting to whitewater kayak, practice your kayak roll in a local pool. This will make sure you are able to stay in the kayak if you get knocked over in the waves.

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If you're looking to switch it up and kayak rivers instead of lakes, these are the four types of river kayaks. You don't have to be a pro kayaker to take on varying levels of river current. It certainly helps to have the right river kayak for the job. If you enjoyed this article and are hungry for more paddling tips, tricks, reviews, and adventures, head on over to PaddleTV and sign up for our Hazeadventure.com newsletter. 

Sit on top kayak: Jackson Kayak YuPik
Inflatable kayak: Star Inflatable Kayak
Sit inside kayak: Jackson Kayak Tupelo
Whitewater kayak: Jackson Kayak Rockstar V
Paddle: Aqua Bound Shred Whitewater Paddle, Bending Branches Angler Classic Fishing Paddle
PFDs: NRS Zen, NRS Chinook
Helmet: WRSI Current Helmet

The post Best Kayaks for Rivers appeared first on Hazeadventure.

There's no concrete answer to find here, just a list of pros and cons to sort through, while also incorporating your own personal preferences. But with that said, I think by breaking down the main distinctions, and sharing my own opinions, other paddlers can get a head start on the matter. 

For this gear comparison, I actually brought both types of paddles with me on a 4-day canoe trip through my favorite region: Killarney Provincial Park. For the first 2 days, I used the Bending Branches Catalyst (straight)  and the last 2 days I went with the Java (bent). 

Bent Shaft Canoe Paddle

The idea with a bent shaft canoe paddle is that it makes the forward stroke more efficient. If you've never used a paddle like this before, then your first instinct may be to scoop the water, but in actuality, the bend is meant to point away from you.

The reason for this is that the angle of the blade stays more vertical during the back half of the stroke, compared to the same motion with a straight shaft paddle. In the latter case, once the blade passes the knee, it starts to pull up (i.e. no longer just propelling the canoe forward). This, in turn, pulls your boat down; creating drag.

Bent shaft canoe paddles better?

In canoes and kayaks alike, bent shaft paddles lead to more powerful and efficient forward strokes, but this doesn't mean they are better across the board. Straight shaft paddles are an all-purpose tool.

They still effectively propel the boat forward, and for all other strokes, straight shaft paddles are more intuitive to use. Plus, it doesn't matter which side you catch the water with – it's the exact same. Whereas sometimes I'll catch paddlers getting a little twisted up with the orientation of a bent shaft. 

Straight shaft paddles are also the way to go in rougher conditions. While pounding through some whitewater, it's helpful to have a paddle that works the same from either side, since you'll be taking a lot of back strokes while also trying to charge ahead (as well as draw strokes, etc.). Conversely, if you expect long days of paddling across calm waters, that's where the argument in favor of a bent shaft really comes into play. 

After doing my extended side-by-side comparison, I realized that I prefer the straight shaft paddle (the Catalyst). Aside from it simply being more comfortable (for me anyway), I also appreciate having added dexterity.

Because of my background as a whitewater kayaker, I like to mix things up when I'm out there. I'm not solely concerned with finding the most-efficient path forward. I'm sure that over time I would become more intrigued with a bent shaft (the Java), but as it stands, I like a straight shaft canoe paddle better. 

Side note on length of canoe paddles

A straight shaft canoe paddle should be about 4-inches longer than a bent one. For example, I'm 6-foot-2 (and long in the arms), and I used a 58-inch straight paddle, but a 54-inch bent. 

Canoe and Canoe Paddle Rentals in Killarney Provincial Park

Killarney Outfitters has an abundance of canoes and canoe paddles on hand to rent (including the Swift Prospector that I used) and provide guided services to make the trip possible for paddlers of any skill level. For more information, contact Killarney Outfitters HERE.

That's my hot take on this canoeist's dilemma. I hope this helps steer you in the right direction. For more content on everything paddling-related, including my Paddle Tales episodes in Killarney (and beyond!), check out PaddleTV and subscribe to the Hazeadventure.com newsletter for regular updates. 

Canoe: Swift Prospector 17
Canoe paddles:   Bending Branches Catalyst (straight) & Bending Branches Java 11
PFD:  NRS Zen PFD
Paddling Top:  NRS Silkweight shirt
Paddling Shorts:  NRS Lolo Pants

The post Canoe Paddle: Bent Shaft Canoe Paddle vs Straight Shaft appeared first on Hazeadventure.