Philip Edward Island and the Kayaking Route

My trips to Georgian Bay had long been limited to the Philip Edward Island area, just outside Killarney Provincial Park. You can do a day trip, a multi-day expedition, or spend four or five days circumnavigating the island. This year, I finally had the opportunity to explore a larger section of the bay. My plan was to paddle from Chikanishing Creek, just outside the town of Killarney, to the small town of Britt on the eastern shore – a path that would take me across Philip Edward Island and through the French River Provincial Park.  One of the joys of paddling Georgian Bay is the 30,000 islands that offer endless route options and protection from wind and waves. These islands are what make the bay one of the world’s best sea kayaking destinations.

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Day 1 – Delays and a Late Start

A major storm made the 4-hour drive from the Ottawa Valley to Britt a slow one. When I arrived, the shuttle driver from Killarney Outfitters was ready to take me to Chikanishing Creek, about 90 minutes away. But with rain pouring down, I headed to Killarney Outfitters instead to wait out the weather. I love visiting the shop—but I also hate it, because they have an incredible selection of paddling and camping gear, and I always find something I want to buy. Still, I'm happy to support them. They've done so much to support paddling in the region, and they offer services like gear rentals, boat shuttles, and meal planning that make paddling in Killarney Provincial Park and Georgian Bay accessible to countless visitors every year.

After picking up a few “essentials” and waiting out the storm on Killarney Outfitter’s porch, the rain finally slowed at 5:30 PM. I made my way to the boat launch, packed up, and hit the water just after 6 PM. With the summer solstice approaching, I still had light until after 9 PM. The winds were calm, and I made good time toward West Fox Island, a popular campsite off the shore of Philip Edward Island. After setting up camp and enjoying chicken fajitas for dinner, the rain returned just after sunset, and I called it a night.

Day 2 – Kayaking Into New Waters

The morning was clear and calm—perfect paddling conditions. I used the calm conditions to cross the open water in front of Philip Edward Island into waters I had never seen before. My route would take me through a cluster of rocky islands known as The Chickens, which I had always wanted to explore. My goal was to continue around Point Grondine and find a campsite in Horseshoe Bay.

The day began with glassy water as I paddled through the Hawk Islands. But as I continued on my way to The Chickens, the wind had picked up and the water turned choppy. The Chickens provided great shelter from the waves, and they were everything I imagined: a maze of beautiful, smooth islands with narrow channels that could keep a paddler exploring for hours. It was tempting to stop there for the night, but with a storm forecasted for the next day, I pushed on to find a more protected site.

Paddling along the Hawk Islands

Paddling through ‘The Chickens’

Day 3 – Beating the Storm

With nasty weather expected after noon, I was up early and on the water by 7:45 AM. Headwinds and choppy water made for tough paddling. Though I could’ve hugged the shoreline and traveled more protected waters, I chose a more direct line through open water. After three exhausting hours, I finally veered inshore to find refuge among the islands.

The islands offered much-needed protection from the wind, but navigating them required close attention. Around noon, I arrived at my planned campsite – and just in time. The rain began, and soon after, thunderstorms rolled through one after the other. I quickly set up my tarp and tent and hunkered down for the rest of the day.

Rough Seas on the morning of Day 3

Day 4 – Bustards and Glass Calm

One of the highlights of paddling through French River Provincial Park is the opportunity to explore the Bustard Islands, an archipelago located 2 km offshore. The weather had calmed overnight, and I took advantage of the conditions to paddle out and visit the Bustard Islands Lighthouse. I spent the morning exploring the area. From the Bustards, I made a direct crossing to the eastern shore, saving a few kilometers by traveling the open water. It’s not a place you want to be caught if the wind turns, but I made it safely to the Churchill Islands by late afternoon, having paddled about 22 km.

The Bustard Island Lighthouse, which is still active to this day, although it’s now automated. 

Weaving through the outer islands of the Bustards.

Camp 4 on Churchill Island

Day 5 – Final Stretch to Britt

Until this point, I’d been traveling mostly east. On Day 5, I turned southeast toward Byng Inlet, and eventually entered the Britt River, reaching my truck at Wright’s Marina. It marked the end of an incredible adventure through one of the best sea kayaking destinations in the world.  This was a trip that I had been looking forward to for a number of years, and I had very high expectations for it.  It’s fair to say that my expectations were exceeded, as they usually are when I visit Georgian Bay.  But what’s really exciting is the fact that there’s so much more Georgian Bay to explore.

Things to Know

Camping

The first part of the trip is on Crown land with no reservations required until you reach French River Provincial Park. There are no designated campsites, but the best spots are marked on paddling maps. Expect to camp on granite, so make sure your tent has guy lines to tie to rocks, because tent pegs won’t work. The majority of sites don’t have pit toilets/ thunderboxes, and so expect to need to dig a cat hole. When doing so, choose a location far from water and camp, and with enough soil so that you can dig a hole between 6”-9” deep.

Through French River Provincial Park, designated campsites require reservations. Once you’re through the Park, you’re back onto Crown land with plenty of good camping options.

Communication

I had better cell service than expected throughout the trip, but it’s not something you can rely on. I carried a satellite communicator for safety and to receive weather forecasts.

Weather

Weather on Georgian Bay changes quickly. I made a habit of checking forecasts twice daily and constantly adjusted my plans based on wind.

Maps

There’s no single map covering the whole route. I used a Philip Edward Island paddling map, a French River Provincial Park map, and a nautical chart from the Canadian Hydrographic Service.

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For paddlers, Georgian Bay is among the greatest destinations in the world. It rewards preparation and patience with some of the most breathtaking scenery on the planet. Out there, every paddle stroke feels like a step back in time, into a wilderness that refuses to be tamed. Watch more paddling adventures by subscribing to Ken Whiting Adventures.

SPECIAL THANKS

Destination Ontario https://www.destinationontario.com  

The Seven https://www.northeasternontario.com

Explorer's Edge http://explorersedge.ca

Ontario Creates, Boreal Design Kayaks, NRS, Aqua Bound, Killarney Outfitters

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Eureka Springs: A Gateway to the Ozarks

Right in the middle of Eureka Springs, you’ll find trail maps and spring guides posted on the streets. This is evidence of how much the town embraces its natural surroundings. It’s a place where nature isn’t just nearby; it’s embedded in the town itself. From historic springs to peaceful trails, this little town in the Ozarks captures the perfect blend of history, charm, and adventure.

What struck me most about Eureka Springs was how it managed to feel like a time capsule while still being full of hip shops, good coffee, and friendly locals. It’s the kind of place where you can wander from an art gallery straight into the woods.

Mountain Biking the Passion Play Trails

Arkansas is rapidly becoming known as a mountain biker's paradise. The Passion Play Trail System in Eureka Springs shows exactly why. You'll find a great mix of easier trails, flowing switchbacks, and clearly marked technical terrain for experienced riders. I had a great time picking up speed on some of the easier trails, and braking for my life on the technical descents.

It’s not just about adrenaline, though—local guides like Danny at 37 North Expeditions make the experience even richer. He offers curated outdoor adventures, from biking to paddling to hiking, and it’s clear he loves sharing the Ozarks with new visitors.

Hiking Through the Buffalo River and Big Bluff

Just a short drive from Eureka Springs lies the Buffalo National River, home to towering bluffs and vibrant forest trails. One of the highlights? Big Bluff—an iconic spot along the Buffalo River Trail, which is part of the larger Ozark Highlands Trail system.

With 270 miles of trail weaving through the Ozarks, you’ll find plenty of solitude and striking views. Fall colors, quiet caves, and playful rock formations make every step feel like part of nature’s playground.

Camping Under the Stars in the Ozarks

As the sun sets, the Buffalo National River reveals one of its best-kept secrets: it’s a certified Dark Sky Park. That means you’ll be treated to truly dark nights—perfect for stargazing.

And if you’re like me, a quick (and freezing) dip in the river is the perfect way to end a full day of adventure in the Ozarks of Arkansas.

Whether you’re hiking, biking, or just soaking it all in, the Ozarks offer a kind of wild, soulful beauty that’s hard to match. And Eureka Springs? It’s the heart of it all.

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