But it's also important to know that I've been using their paddles for 25+ years — back when I was competing in whitewater kayaking and loooong before I ever got in front of a camera. So while it is easy for me to fawn over these paddles, it still remains my goal to give you a genuine sneak peak into a series that has received its first overhaul in quite some time. Let's break it all down so that you can know what to expect. 

An Overview of Aqua Bound's Ray Series

When Aqua Bound launched the Ray Series kayak paddles, they quickly made a splash because they combined three important attributes: affordability, durability, and performance.

Aqua Bound Ray Series Kayak Paddle Cost

When I say affordable, I don't mean that these paddles aren't a significant investment, but with a price range of between $130 to $250 (USD), this is relatively inexpensive when compared to the rest of the high-end paddle market.

A paddle in this price range, that also has a proven track record of durability and performance, is a perfect trifecta when looking for a great kayak paddle. 

Another reason Aqua Bound's Ray Series ranks high in my books is because it includes three different options for paddle composition:

• Fiberglass Kayak Paddles: 100% fiberglass shaft and fiberglass-reinforced nylon blades (least expensive)
• Carbon Kayak Paddles: 100% carbon shaft and carbon-reinforced nylon blades (most expensive)
• Hybrid Kayaking Paddles: 100% carbon shaft and a fiberglass-reinforced nylon blade. The hybrid paddle splits the difference in terms of price and performance benefits.

Manta Ray vs Sting Ray Paddle Blade Sizes

These models also have the option of two blade sizes to choose from. There is the Manta Ray, which is wider and therefore best for larger paddlers and/or more aggressive paddling; and then there is the Sting Ray, which is longer/narrower and better suited for smaller paddlers and/or a more relaxed paddling style.

The three main models and two blade shapes are the same offerings now as they were in previous generations. What has changed are some subtle performance upgrades to the blade designs (more on that in a minute), a slick new ferrule design, and it's hard to miss the two new snazzy color options: electric green and sunset (along with classic black). 

Ray Series Design Upgrades

1. New Ferrule Option

One of the things that excited me the most about the updated Ray series was the introduction of the new Versa-Lok ferrule. For quick reference (but keep reading for more info on ferrules in general), Aqua Bound has used, and continues to use, a basic snap-button system on their fiberglass paddles, and a Posi-Lok ferrule on some of the carbon and hybrid paddles (which allows for an infinite number of feather/twist options and locks in beautifully).

How to choose kayak paddle length

The joy of the new Versa-Lok, which also features in some hybrid and carbon models, is that it performs the same functions as the Posi-Lok, plus it allows for length adjustments of up to 15 centimeters! This means you don't have to worry about choosing the correct kayak paddle length as a new paddler. This telescoping ferrule is great for anyone who doesn't know exactly what length of paddle they want, for sharing a paddle with friends/family, and for switching between kayaks that have differing ideal length requirements. The Versa-Lok is a $20 upgrade, which I think is totally worth it for anyone in those 3 categories. 

2. Refined Blade Shapes

After paddling around with the upgraded Ray Series paddles for a couple of hours, I really didn't notice much of a difference from the previous blade designs. But since I loved these paddles before, that is in no way a bad thing. And considering that the prices stayed the same, any refinements, no matter how small, are still a bonus. For your own notes, here are the 4 changes that Aqua Bound made to the blades:

– A smoother, “flutter-free” forward stroke compared to previous generations

– Softened dihedral near the tip for a quieter entry and exit

– Reduced backside spine for greater technical stroke ability

– And improved strength (less likely to snap, crack or wear), without an increase in weight

Side Note Reminder About Ferrules:

What is the ferrule on a kayak paddle?

A ferrule is a fancy name for the connection point on a two-piece paddle. Nowadays, most paddles come with at least a two-piece construction because they're so much more convenient to transport. The most basic of the three common ferrules that you'll see is a snap-button system. The advantage here is a simple and cheap design.

The downsides are limited feather/twist options (more to come on this), they tend to get locked up with prolonged use (especially in saltwater), and there's always a bit of “give” or “play” that can be felt while paddling — not a lot, but enough to be a little annoying.

A locking ferrule works to eliminate that bit of movement at the joint. It also gives you a lot more freedom to customize the twist. The last ferrule type is a telescoping system. This one allows for adjustments in length, which is particularly helpful if you're someone who paddles different types of kayaks, or likes to share with fellow kayakers.

Why are kayak paddle blades angled? 

Some paddles can be set to a certain “twist” or “feather.” Both of these terms refer to the offset, or angle of the paddle blades relative to one another. This is done so that while one blade is in the water, the other slices through the air with the narrow side of the blade, rather than the full, flat fin. If you're battling the wind, or racing another boat and need to claw for those fractions of a second, then this can be an effective strategy.

However, if you're just getting started, I think it's best to leave your paddle at a zero-offset/angle/twist/feather. I actually use a zero-offset paddle myself. 30 years ago, when I was just starting out, I initially had a 90-degree twist. Eventually I backed it off to a 60, and then a 30, 15, and finally I ditched it altogether.  

Which Ray Series Paddle Is Right For You?

The fiberglass models (fiberglass shaft and fiberglass-reinforced nylon blades) are high-quality entry-level/budget-friendly choices. These are the heaviest and most flexible of the three categories, which means more cumulative fatigue and a less efficient stroke – but the plus side is they fall into that appealing $130 – $140 (USD) price range. 

If you are someone who enjoys longer paddling days and has the budget to step up to a more advanced design, then the hybrid models might be something for you to consider. In these paddles, the shaft is made of carbon, which makes them lighter and stiffer. They also come with either the Posi-Lok or the newly implemented Versa-Lok ferrules – both of which improve the feel of the shaft and allow for customization. 

And finally, the carbon models (made with carbon shafts and carbon-reinforced nylon blades) are the top-tier options for high-performance paddling. The carbon Ray paddles are the lightest and stiffest in the series, and of course come with both the Posi-Lok and Versa-Lok ferrule options. Even though these range in price from $225 – $245, that is still a fantastic price when considering that carbon paddles can retail for upwards of double that.

The beauty of the Ray Series paddles are that each price increment provides significant gains in terms of feel and performance. If you are a dedicated kayaker and have the budget to go for a full-carbon model, I highly recommend that you give it a shot. 

How to choose a kayak paddle

When selecting a kayak paddle, it's important to consider the materials used, the shape of the blades, the length, the ferrule systems, what kind of paddling you aim to do, and of course, how all of these things fit into your budget. For a detailed guide on the ins and outs of choosing a paddle, check out this PaddleTV video. 

Where are Aqua Bound paddles made?

Aqua Bound began operations in Surrey, British Columbia, Canada, in 1991, and moved down to Osceola, Wisconsin in 2008, where their paddles continue to be manufactured. 

I hope you enjoyed my overview of the new Aqua Bound Ray Series. As I said in the beginning, I've been a fan of these paddles for a long time. I gave them two thumbs up before, and I give the latest versions two thumbs up as well! If you want to learn more about how to choose the right paddles, take in other gear reviews, or just watch me splash around in a lot of cool places, subscribe to our newsletter!

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FOOTWEAR  

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The post Kayak Paddle Review: Aqua Bound Ray Series New Design appeared first on Hazeadventure.

More specifically than that, let’s talk about why paddles come in such a wide range of prices. Your paddle is your connection to the water, so it's important to have a good paddle – but is it worth the difference between spending $100 and $500? Let’s dive in.

The Comparison

For this blog, I’m using the Aqua-Bound Whiskey and Sting Ray Paddles. I know there are a lot of other options out there on the market, but it’s what I have on-hand and use all the time. Plus, these paddles have comparable counterparts with other brands.

The $100 Paddle

Aqua-Bound Sting Ray Series

Retail Price: $149 USD

For this comparison, I’m using the Aqua-Bound Sting Ray Hybrid paddle. It features a carbon shaft and fiberglass reinforced nylon blades. It comes in a variety of options such as a 2-piece snap button model or the new Posi-Lok system, but this model starts around $150 USD and goes up from there.

The $500 Paddle

Aqua-Bound Whiskey Series

Retail Price: Starting at $399 USD

The second paddle is the Aqua-Bound Whiskey Bent Shaft Fiberglass paddle. This paddle features full carbon shaft bent shaft and compression-molded fiberglass blades. Again, there’s a number of features that you can upgrade on this paddle, like full carbon blades instead of fiberglass, or a straight shaft vs bent shaft, but you’re looking at anywhere from $399-500 USD on this bad boy.

So, What’s the Difference?

Materials Matter

Sting Ray Fiberglass 2-Piece Paddle

In both paddles above, the shaft is made from carbon, which is stiffer and lighter than fiberglass options out there.

A carbon shaft is nice to hold, especially for a long day of paddling because that stiffness transfers into power. So every stroke you take, you get more pop from it because the shaft isn't bending as much.
If you’re looking to save a bit of money, the fiberglass shaft options are still great and they’re worth checking out.

Straight vs. Bent Shaft Paddles

You may be wondering “what the heck is the point of a bent shaft?” The purpose of the bent shaft is to put your arms in a more ergonomically correct position while you're paddling. So as you're pulling on a stroke, you're actually pulling so that the shaft angle is at a similar direction to the direction of pull. It feels good after a long day of paddling and some people really like the bent shaft, other people don't really notice that much, that's a matter of personal preference.

What I can tell you is that for me, having a bent shaft is a nice feature. I don't find it to be an enormous upgrade, but I like it. Is it worth the dollars that are required to upgrade to it? Well, because it comes with a carbon shaft, for me, it is. It's worth the extra money because you're getting a much better feeling paddle that transfers more power with each stroke and it feels better after a long day of paddling.

What About the Blades?

In the examples above, the blades are very different on each paddle. One being a compression molded fiberglass blade versus a reinforced nylon blade.

With the compression molded fibreglass, not only is your paddle going to be lighter, but it will be a lot stiffer, which in turn gives you a lot more pulling power. With the nylon reinforced blade (which is for all intents and purposes, plastic) you’re going to notice a bit more of a ‘flutter’ in the water, as it’s not as stiff.

Ultimately, that's the difference between an expensive paddle and a cheaper paddle. You're getting a paddle that's lighter, which makes it easier to paddle for a longer period of time, you're getting a paddle that actually is more efficient and you're getting a paddle that feels better in the water.

Is it Worth It?

So, is it worth the jump from $100 to $500? It really depends on how much you paddle.

For me, I paddle a lot for work and for leisure and so having a paddle that’s lighter, feels better in my hands and reduces paddling fatigue, it’s worth it to me. If you're only getting out for the occasional paddling trip, then you can definitely get by with the cheaper options out there.

The nice thing about paddles (and all paddling gear for the most part) is that a great secondhand market exists. This means you can start out with a cheaper model, and if you decide it’s not for you, you can recoup some of that initial cost and put it towards an upgrade down the line. It's usually not very hard to find someone to buy that paddle and some shops will do gear swaps, as well as sell their demo models. It’s always worth checking with your local shop to see what your options are.

Check Out Paddle Tales

Paddle Tales follows World Champion kayaker, Ken Whiting, around North America as he explores the continent by sea kayak, whitewater kayak, canoe, and stand up paddleboard, while telling the stories of the unique people and places that he encounters.

Please note: in the video linked above, I do mention the wrong paddle at 0:36 when discussing the different features, and there is also some confusion around upgrading paddle options for the Whiskey/Tango series, so I’ve tried to address them here in this blog post.

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The post How to Choose a Kayak Paddle appeared first on Hazeadventure.