Not all roadtrips are created equal. For example, let’s spin that globe and take a gander down south. At the bottom of South America lies a wind-scoured land of violent geology. It’s known as the end of the world. And it sure feels like it.

Patagonia, an area of land that spans the bottom third of both Chile and Argentina, is legendary. Not only is one the most popular outdoor clothing brands named after it, it’s a pretty cool place on its own. Feared by ancient explorers, sailing routes around Cape Horn were treacherous. Vicious winds around the cape could take down a ship faster than the Kraken. Fast forward a few hundred years, and it still holds that sense of awe and fear in the minds of explorers.

The Carretera Austral, Spanish for the Southern Road, winds through mountains, along coasts, skirting ice fields and glaciers, and transports travelers along a magical land. Back in 2015, I rented a truck in Puerto Varas, Chile to drive the entirety of the Carretera Austral and set out on an adventure I’d never forget.

For those keen on adventure, here’s how to do it.

The Carretera Austral begins in Puerto Mont, a relatively bustling town at the northern edge of Patagonia. Many people use this city as their jump off point as it is easiest to facilitate a vehicle rental or purchase. I rented a vehicle. And while it was convenient, it was absolutely more expensive that way. For those with flexible schedules, buying a vehicle en situ, using it for as long as one desires, and then selling it upon completion, is the much more financially sound decision.

My adventure spanned five weeks. That’s a long time to rent a vehicle and it cost me several thousand dollars. However, it is still to this day one of my best adventures I’ve ever done. I do not miss that money. Buying and selling a vehicle will take some time and is best suited to long term travelers.

This roadtrip has only been made possible in the last twenty years or so. Amazingly the final stretches of the road were only completed in 2000. The land is so incredible, simply building a road here took a herculean effort. And in some places, its still impossible to build a road. Ferries come in to play. There are multiple major ferry crossings along the route where the practicalities of roadbuilding do not match the terrain.

South from Puerto Mont, there’s a short stretch of driving before the first ferry just south of Parque Nacional Alerce Andino. But I may suggest already diverting north to Puerto Varas (where I began) and driving along the shores of Lake Langihue and through La Reserva Nacional Langihue, home of Volcan Cabulco, the volcano that erupted in incredible fashion a few years ago. Following this route will take travelers along a fjord (the same one the ferry crosses if staying on the traditional route). A notable place of interest Valle Cochomo, a beautiful land of granite domes and cliffs that truly resemble Yosemite National Park. For climbers especially, this place must be seen.

A little south of Cochomo, the road rejoins Route 7 and you’re officially back on the Carretera Austral. It’s important for travelers of the Southern Road to be flexible. There are so many fantastic sights along the way, it is wise to have ample time to stop and explore.

For the next few hundred miles, this region within Patagonia remains fairly temperate and can be quite rainy. Bring a rain jacket and be prepared for some major downpours. During my two and a half months in Patagonia, more than one major storm hit that drove me inside for several days at a time. Some were so fierce I thought the building would blow over. Luckily Patagonian architects have anticipated the windy conditions. The buildings remained.

There are so many wonderful places along the roadway, it would be impossible to list them all. This article would never end. But for practical purposes, I’ll list a few more.

Cerro Castillo is one of the more dramatic mountains in an area full of dramatic mountains. As I rounded a bend and first witnessed this mountain, I immediately pulled over to gawk. I then drove around until I found somewhere to stay. Luckily, I stumbled upon a farmhouse that advertised a spare bed. When I drove up, a kind woman in her sixties walked out with a plate of cookies to greet me.

Cerro Castillo, the essence of drama.

A few hours south Route 7 follows the shores of Lago General Carrera, a very large and beautiful lake. From Puerto Rio Tranquilo, a lovely small village, one can explore La Catedral de Marmol, or the Marble Cathedral. The lake has scoured the marble shoreline into very dramatic and beautiful natural sculptures.

The Carretera Austral approaching Lago General Carrera

Continuing south you’ll saddle alongside Rio Baker, a stunning blue green river that pumps through a gorge which delights kayakers. Soon you’ll come upon a junction with Route X-83, a dirt road that leads you through Parque Nacional Patagonia. This national park was created in part by Doug and Kris Tompkins, whose little business The North Face has achieved modest success. They bought the land to conserve it, and donated it back to Chile to manage as an undeveloped wildlife corridor.

X-83 is important for another reason. It’s a long dirt road that will take you up and over the pass and into Argentina and eventually connecting you with Route 40, Argentina’s famous road south through Patagonia. This road is the southernmost reliable option for crossing into Argentina by land. During the summer months, it’s possible to ferry from Villa O’Higgins across Lago San Martin to Argentina, near the famous El Chalten.

However, in the winter months, this ferry is closed. Travelers who wish to continue south must take X-83 across a very lonesome border crossing and continue on Route 40.

The views from Villa O’Higgins

But don’t miss Villa O’Higgins! It is absolutely worth seeing Route 7 to it’s end at Villa O’Higgins and seeing this most dramatic stretch of Chile.

While the Carretera Austral technically ends in Villa O’Higgins, you are extremely close to one of the most incredible zones on the planet. So let’s extend the adventure just a little further south.

By crossing into Argentina, either using the ferry from Villa O’Higgins or X-83 overland, make your way to El Chalten, home of Fitz Roy and Los Glacieres National Park. Climbers have long come here, drawn by the incredible pointed peaks. But it’s home to wonderful backcountry hiking and camping as well.

Torres Del Paine is the crown jewel of Andes.

Continuing south, cross back into Chile near Puerto Natales and head north to see my favorite place in all of South America, Torres del Paine National Park. This place alone is staggering, and is worth being at the top of anyone’s bucket list. Be sure to hike the “W” circuit, a multi-day trail that is an absolute marvel.

A few notes:

I drove this route in 2015. I am sure there has been some infrastructure development since then. But drivers should be prepared for lonely roads with minimal traffic connecting these small towns all the way down. There are sufficient towns with gas stations, markets, and lodging options. However, being able to camp along the way will really allow you to enjoy the route. There are plenty of camping opportunities in this wild part of the world.

The hardest part was having the right paperwork for crossing the border into Argentina with a rental car. Be sure to get that taken care of in Puerto Mont before departing.

Enjoy the wild ride.

The post The Carretera Austral: The World’s Most Badass Roadtrip appeared first on Hazeadventure.

The view from the Crack in the Wall

Although the access to Coyote Gulch is through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the canyon is actually located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Permits are required for all overnights and can be acquired at the BLM ranger station in Escalante, Utah.

A few miles east of Escalante lies Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a fifty-mile long road through Grand Staircase that leads to many wonderful treasures. From here, there are a few route options and trailheads for Coyote Gulch. Bear Foot Theory has some great resources on trailheads options.

A popular route option is known as the Crack in the Wall. To do this, park your vehicle at the Water Tanks trailhead, where you’ll begin and finish your trip.

To get here, drive south on Hole in the Rock Road for 36 miles. Turn east (left) on Forty Mile Ridge Road and drive seven miles. You’ll see large water tanks. This is the trailhead. From here, hike 4.5 miles across exposed desert following a 4×4 road (This road can be driven, but the sand is very deep. You’ll likely get stuck without a serious off-road vehicle.) At the end of the jeep track, you’ll see signage. From here you're following cairns across slickrock. At this point you should see signs of the cliff you’ll soon be descending via the Crack in the Wall. Across the canyon is the impressive Steven’s Arch.

The Crack in the Wall is a fun feature, a literal crack in the cliff that can be descended or ascended. It’s tricky, but in a playful, non-intimidating way. The “crack” is very narrow and cannot be squeezed through while wearing a pack. Bring about twenty feet of webbing or cordage to lower your gear down a cliff so you can freely move through the crack.

And now, my friends, you are in the spectacular canyon of Coyote Gulch. The from here is quite stunning, with a large monolith of rock, goosenecks in the canyon, and a the iconic Steven's Arch. It's one of my favorite areas in Utah.

The trail drops down a very sandy trail to the bottom of the Coyote Gulch. From here, there are sporadic trails along the sides of the canyon. But navigation requires mostly river hiking. Bring adequate footwear, as water, mud, and quicksand will be your new constant companion.

Turning left (upcanyon) will lead you through miles of variable beauty.

When I did it, I spent my first night camped under a beautiful alcove just above a great swimming hole. There are a dozen good campsites along the way. But this one was particularly great. The next morning, we spent our time leisurely sipping coffee and swimming in a pool with a gentle cascade. We benefited greatly from having three days to do about fifteen miles of hiking. It meant we could go at a very slow and pleasant pace, spending time at every great spot (and there are many).

Continuing up-canyon, you’ll pass several waterfalls, including a spring-fed waterfall that's feeding into the canyon. Most of the waterfalls are like my mom: short, but very pleasant.

Spring, summer, and fall are amazing here as it’s warm (even hot) and the water presents perfect opportunities to swim and cool off.

There are many treasures in Coyote Gulch. But the feature that makes this canyon so famous is the Jacob Hamblin Arch and the two massive alcoves that helped create this spectacular feature. Here, the canyon takes several dramatic 180 degree turns, carving deep alcoves into the cliffs. The canyon snakes back on itself and has eroded out the massive and beautiful arch. There are several campsites in this area, and they are all wonderful (although a bit overused).

The exit the canyon just down-canyon of Jacob Hamblin Arch. The exit is not your typical trail. The canyon walls mellow out, losing their verticality, and at one point create a slick-rock ramp that can be ascended and descended.

This is generally the trickiest and scariest part of the whole trip. The slope is about 45 degrees in pitch and can be a little intimidating. But people of reasonable fitness and comfort with heights and scrambling skills can hike in and out without using a rope. If you are really uncomfortable with several hundred feet of 45 degree rock, just go slowly and pick your way up carefully. Maybe bring a friend who can lend a hand.

From the top of the slope, it's just two miles across the bare desert following cairns to get back to your car at the Water Tanks.

Give each other high fives and hopefully you have a couple cold beers packed on ice at your car.

Logistics and notes:

• Seasons: The ideal seasons are spring and fall. Summers are quite hot, but it can be done (we hiked in August). This could in theory be done in winter, but I'm not sure I'd want to!

• Bring plenty of water, at least three liters. The desert is unforgiving, especially in summer. Bring a water filter. There is a perennial water source in Coyote Gulch which can be filtered. The water is quite silty. Relying on iodine or similar water treatment tabs means you'll be chewing lots of dirt.

• You will be constantly hiking in water. I like Chacos for a scenario like this. But it's a good idea to bring a pair of actual shoes too. My feet got a bit chewed up in my Chacos after miles of dealing with the mud and pebbles that kept finding their way under my footbed.

• Bring about 15 feet of webbing or rope to haul your pack in and out of Crack in the Wall. You cannot fit in the crack with your pack on.

• Poop. What do you do? Wag Bags, a.k.a. poop in a bag. You gotta carry that *ish out. Coyote Gulch has too much traffic to allow for digging catholes. It would NOT be a pretty place. Stop into the ranger station in Escalante and check in to secure your permit and get free Wag Bags.

• Hole in the Rock Road is a looooong dirt road that can be driven by most vehicles when the road is in good shape. But after storms, who knows? Flash floods may have caused damage or made the road significantly muddy. Four wheel drive and high clearance should do the trick in most cases.

• There are no fires allowed in Coyote Gulch

• There are no dogs allowed in Coyote Gulch.

• The ranger station is a great place to get road conditions and a local weather report. Call ahead at (435) 826-5499. This is where you’ll get your permits and Wag Bags.

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