After two months on the road, Kristi and I began a slow, meandering exploration of Southwest Colorado. This little nook of Colorado is a special place, where the land thrusts up directly out of the rusty desert to the south and west. These mountains are the guardians of the Rockies, engulfed in a red sea of dust and canyonlands. Backpacking in the San Juan Mountains is truly remarkable.

We picked our way slowly along, enjoying the quiet mountains and their big billowy clouds and star-filled nights. A meetup with friends in the Durango area sparked conversations of adventures and we were inspired to get into the backcountry, to leave the van behind for a few days and sling our belongings upon our backs.

Good hiking advice from a friend

My friends are the right people to know when it comes to an encyclopedia of information of the wild and beautiful places. One, a writer / journalist / historian / desert wanderer, has made a living out of long and lonesome adventures that would drive the common outdoor enthusiast mad, or pulverize them into the very sand that fills every nook and cranny of the desert. The other, a river running cave exploring mountain climbing ski crazed mountain dweller with an ever perfect five o’clock shadow and disheveled hair. He is a man of the San Juans. The two of them know more about this desolate corner of the Colorado Plateau than most could ever hope to know.

“Go there”

When they pointed us into the mountains and said, “Go there.” We obeyed without argument. Loaded with supplies, we headed up an ever switchbacking road, beginning under 7,000 feet and ending at over 10,000. The next day, we left behind our beloved van and set out on an infrequently used trail that continued further and higher into the mountains.

Hiking the San Juan Mountains of Colorado

The trail was not spectacular. It wound through the sloping mountains of pine. The mountain trail was certainly nice, but the kind of common beauty that people in Colorado enjoy routinely. The hike so far in the San Juan Mountains didn't thrill the senses like I had expected. We continued up, our trio, our gang, or in Kovu’s mind, our pack.

A good sign from a fellow hiker

As the day wore on, we gained another two thousand feet and were well above the trees. Two women who hiked the other way greeted us. Seeing our packs, they asked, “You staying overnight?”

“Yep.” I responded.

“Ever been here before?” the lady asked as she adjusted her day pack.

“Nope.” I responded shortly, still catching my breath.

“You’re in for a treat!” Her eyes glistened. “I’m jealous!”

 Kristi and I looked at each other as our meeting ended.

“I guess that’s a good sign.” Kristi said.

We continued on. The ridge above us now lay a stone’s throw away. We trudged, swallowing breathes at 12,500 feet to try to keep moving. Slowly the ridge came underfoot and the mountainscape beyond revealed itself.

The Colorado view is worth the hike

Like a punch in the stomach, the staggering view left us without breathe. Beyond lay a vast sea of peaks and valleys, alpine lakes and cold flowing creeks. We had ascended a long, slow slope that rose out of the desert itself, until the climax here at the ridge. We were upon the border of the tumultuous inner workings of Colorado, its ancient geology of violence and decay.

Kristi and I climbed higher still, traversing the ridge towards a pinnacle. Just below the summit we found a shoulder where the earth made a small perch at the edge of a cliff. It was just flat enough to make camp. With the mild weather appearing to hold out, we decided we would make our camp at this exposed but truly wild overlook. If the weather turned, it would be a violent, wind torn place to be. But if the weather remained calm, it would provide an incredible place to watch the earth spin.

As the sun dropped, the sea of pink granite peaks illuminated as if from some internal source. The beauty was unparalleled. We drank it in as best we could.

High altitude sleeping

The night was calm but sleepless. The body does not enjoy a gain of nearly six thousand feet of elevation without much warning. The cut in our oxygen rations was rudely received. We tossed and turned through the night, comfortable in our cozy sleeping bags, but sleep refused us. Our alarm went off while only a sliver of light hung on the horizon. We were already awake. We rustled out of our sleeping bags and I put a pot of water on our small stove.

Finding a new camp site

With coffee and tea in hand, we sat on the edge of our perch and watched the sun poke through a window in the clouds. A storm was moving in, veils of rain moving with it. The curtains of rain caught the light, shining near purple in the blue of the morning. We sat there, enamored with the earth and this moment in time.

After breakfast we packed up camp and moved down the mountain. The incoming storm would not treat us well on our precariously perched camp. We retreated back to the ridge, where we resumed the trail and continued down into the basin below. A beautiful lake, shining like a gem, welcomed us into the basin.

Remote backpacking in Southwest Colorado

We were in empty country. The day before we saw only a handful of souls, mostly day hikers. But today, the storm cleared out any competition we may have for good tent sites. We were on our own.

Kristi, Kovu, and I dozed peacefully by the edge of the lake, staring up at the sky as the clouds passed overhead. As the day wore on, we left the grassy shore and hoisted our packs higher up the other side of the mountains. Before long we found another amazing perch to make camp. This one, protected by an enormous bowl of rock, would be much calmer and safer in case of threatening weather.

Weather changes in the Rockies

We were soon thankful for the new location as the afternoon weather shifted. Flashes of lightning and cracks of thunder banged overhead. We had been wandering and nearly ran back to our tent just in the nick of time. A wave of hail pelted the tent as we dashed inside and zipped up the rain fly. Kovu quickly curled up in a pile of sleeping bags and got drowsy despite the torrent of rain and hail that came down upon the tent.

An hour or two later the storm retreated, bringing its thunder to other peaks and ridges further beyond. We stepped outside the tent just as a fading rainbow hung in the air for a few moments before disappearing like an ephemeral stream in the  desert.

The three of us made dinner. The air had been chilled by the storm. We sat on some rocks with our jackets zipped up tight as the light once again faded over the mountains. Beautiful clouds rolled by, catching the lingering light. We sat there amazed. This little excursion had not been terribly difficult. We hadn’t needed to slog many painful miles. The reward felt incongruous with the effort, too much beauty and wonder heaped upon us. But we were thankful.

Interested in reading about more backpacking trips? Read about the George Washington National Forest Top 5 Hikes.

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The view from the Crack in the Wall

Although the access to Coyote Gulch is through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, the canyon is actually located in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Permits are required for all overnights and can be acquired at the BLM ranger station in Escalante, Utah.

A few miles east of Escalante lies Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a fifty-mile long road through Grand Staircase that leads to many wonderful treasures. From here, there are a few route options and trailheads for Coyote Gulch. Bear Foot Theory has some great resources on trailheads options.

A popular route option is known as the Crack in the Wall. To do this, park your vehicle at the Water Tanks trailhead, where you’ll begin and finish your trip.

To get here, drive south on Hole in the Rock Road for 36 miles. Turn east (left) on Forty Mile Ridge Road and drive seven miles. You’ll see large water tanks. This is the trailhead. From here, hike 4.5 miles across exposed desert following a 4×4 road (This road can be driven, but the sand is very deep. You’ll likely get stuck without a serious off-road vehicle.) At the end of the jeep track, you’ll see signage. From here you're following cairns across slickrock. At this point you should see signs of the cliff you’ll soon be descending via the Crack in the Wall. Across the canyon is the impressive Steven’s Arch.

The Crack in the Wall is a fun feature, a literal crack in the cliff that can be descended or ascended. It’s tricky, but in a playful, non-intimidating way. The “crack” is very narrow and cannot be squeezed through while wearing a pack. Bring about twenty feet of webbing or cordage to lower your gear down a cliff so you can freely move through the crack.

And now, my friends, you are in the spectacular canyon of Coyote Gulch. The from here is quite stunning, with a large monolith of rock, goosenecks in the canyon, and a the iconic Steven's Arch. It's one of my favorite areas in Utah.

The trail drops down a very sandy trail to the bottom of the Coyote Gulch. From here, there are sporadic trails along the sides of the canyon. But navigation requires mostly river hiking. Bring adequate footwear, as water, mud, and quicksand will be your new constant companion.

Turning left (upcanyon) will lead you through miles of variable beauty.

When I did it, I spent my first night camped under a beautiful alcove just above a great swimming hole. There are a dozen good campsites along the way. But this one was particularly great. The next morning, we spent our time leisurely sipping coffee and swimming in a pool with a gentle cascade. We benefited greatly from having three days to do about fifteen miles of hiking. It meant we could go at a very slow and pleasant pace, spending time at every great spot (and there are many).

Continuing up-canyon, you’ll pass several waterfalls, including a spring-fed waterfall that's feeding into the canyon. Most of the waterfalls are like my mom: short, but very pleasant.

Spring, summer, and fall are amazing here as it’s warm (even hot) and the water presents perfect opportunities to swim and cool off.

There are many treasures in Coyote Gulch. But the feature that makes this canyon so famous is the Jacob Hamblin Arch and the two massive alcoves that helped create this spectacular feature. Here, the canyon takes several dramatic 180 degree turns, carving deep alcoves into the cliffs. The canyon snakes back on itself and has eroded out the massive and beautiful arch. There are several campsites in this area, and they are all wonderful (although a bit overused).

The exit the canyon just down-canyon of Jacob Hamblin Arch. The exit is not your typical trail. The canyon walls mellow out, losing their verticality, and at one point create a slick-rock ramp that can be ascended and descended.

This is generally the trickiest and scariest part of the whole trip. The slope is about 45 degrees in pitch and can be a little intimidating. But people of reasonable fitness and comfort with heights and scrambling skills can hike in and out without using a rope. If you are really uncomfortable with several hundred feet of 45 degree rock, just go slowly and pick your way up carefully. Maybe bring a friend who can lend a hand.

From the top of the slope, it's just two miles across the bare desert following cairns to get back to your car at the Water Tanks.

Give each other high fives and hopefully you have a couple cold beers packed on ice at your car.

Logistics and notes:

• Seasons: The ideal seasons are spring and fall. Summers are quite hot, but it can be done (we hiked in August). This could in theory be done in winter, but I'm not sure I'd want to!

• Bring plenty of water, at least three liters. The desert is unforgiving, especially in summer. Bring a water filter. There is a perennial water source in Coyote Gulch which can be filtered. The water is quite silty. Relying on iodine or similar water treatment tabs means you'll be chewing lots of dirt.

• You will be constantly hiking in water. I like Chacos for a scenario like this. But it's a good idea to bring a pair of actual shoes too. My feet got a bit chewed up in my Chacos after miles of dealing with the mud and pebbles that kept finding their way under my footbed.

• Bring about 15 feet of webbing or rope to haul your pack in and out of Crack in the Wall. You cannot fit in the crack with your pack on.

• Poop. What do you do? Wag Bags, a.k.a. poop in a bag. You gotta carry that *ish out. Coyote Gulch has too much traffic to allow for digging catholes. It would NOT be a pretty place. Stop into the ranger station in Escalante and check in to secure your permit and get free Wag Bags.

• Hole in the Rock Road is a looooong dirt road that can be driven by most vehicles when the road is in good shape. But after storms, who knows? Flash floods may have caused damage or made the road significantly muddy. Four wheel drive and high clearance should do the trick in most cases.

• There are no fires allowed in Coyote Gulch

• There are no dogs allowed in Coyote Gulch.

• The ranger station is a great place to get road conditions and a local weather report. Call ahead at (435) 826-5499. This is where you’ll get your permits and Wag Bags.

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